Antiteori - ini zaman anti teori
Even made in indonesian language. This blog has a very informative content including blogging tutorial, free SMS, reflection section, and most imprtant is internet business.
The author, danielrannu aka. buyungupik has his own remarkable reputation and credibility on indonesian blogosphere. His way of writing is as unique as his blog template...easy reading, comperhensive and firm also.
He has his own point of view on responsing critical issues like internet scam, and multi-level-marketing business scheme. Overall, i will give antiteori-ini zaman anti teori a deserve score 7 of 10. thanx for danielrannu aka.buyungupik to give me a chance to write review on your blog. Keep blogging spirit bro =)
Saturday, October 13, 2007
Sunday, September 2, 2007
Did You Know?
• German Shepherds were among the first dogs trained for police work- beginning around 1900 in Ghent, Belgium.
• Dog’s body cells contain the most pairs of chromosomes (heredity- carrying structures) of any mammal- 39 pairs.
• There is an old Chinese belief that if a person owns a good and faithful dog that the dog will sacrifice itself to Death when Death demands a member of its’ immediate family.
• The most decorated U.S. dog during World War II was a German Shepherd/Husky/ Collie mix named Chips. He also served as a guard dog in North America and later earned a Silver Star for capturing a machine gun nest during the invasion of Sicily.
• Dogs have been used to determine whether twins are identical or fraternal because identicals have the same scent, but fraternals do not, no matter how much they may look alike.
• The Latin word for faithful is “Fido?” Could this possibly have any connection with the fact that so many dogs are named this?
• If an old or sick dog does not shake itself after getting up that this is a sign of bad overall health? Each dog shakes itself to get every muscle and tendon back into perfect place after waking up.
• A dog can survey an area between 200 to 270 degrees, depending on the shape of its skull and the positioning of its eyes, compared to the average of 100 degrees for a human being.
• Due to the popularity of lap dogs in ancient Rome, Julius Caesar once mused if Roman women had ceased to have children in lieu of their new four-legged companions.
• Dog’s body cells contain the most pairs of chromosomes (heredity- carrying structures) of any mammal- 39 pairs.
• There is an old Chinese belief that if a person owns a good and faithful dog that the dog will sacrifice itself to Death when Death demands a member of its’ immediate family.
• The most decorated U.S. dog during World War II was a German Shepherd/Husky/ Collie mix named Chips. He also served as a guard dog in North America and later earned a Silver Star for capturing a machine gun nest during the invasion of Sicily.
• Dogs have been used to determine whether twins are identical or fraternal because identicals have the same scent, but fraternals do not, no matter how much they may look alike.
• The Latin word for faithful is “Fido?” Could this possibly have any connection with the fact that so many dogs are named this?
• If an old or sick dog does not shake itself after getting up that this is a sign of bad overall health? Each dog shakes itself to get every muscle and tendon back into perfect place after waking up.
• A dog can survey an area between 200 to 270 degrees, depending on the shape of its skull and the positioning of its eyes, compared to the average of 100 degrees for a human being.
• Due to the popularity of lap dogs in ancient Rome, Julius Caesar once mused if Roman women had ceased to have children in lieu of their new four-legged companions.
A Little Bit About The Pomeranian
This is dog is occasionally referred to as the Miniature Spitz dog or European Spitz. In its native land of Germany it is the smallest member of the German Spitz group. The Pomeranian is also sometimes called the German Spitz in Germany.
In Germany the Pomeranian was bred to its present size in Pomeranian during the nineteenth century. Its ancestors were of the Spitz type and larger. Among the Pomeranian’s ancestors are the Samoyed, Norwegian Elkhound, Chow Chow and other northern European breeds. It is possible that the Pomeranian was reduced in size from the large white sled dog that originated in Iceland and Lapland. Exact time of origin is unknown. Queen Victoria of England took a great liking to the Pomeranian and helped to increase its popularity in her palace in 1888.
Other Spitz types were used as herding dogs and sled pullers. The Pomeranian, however, has always been a lapdog. It came to America in the late nineteenth century and was shown in the miscellaneous class in 1892 by the AKC. American Kennel Club recognized the Pomeranian officially in 1900. Since that time he has become quite popular as a pampered little pet.
Personality
The Pomeranian is sometimes a little too courageous for its own good. He serves well as an alarm dog, but its barking sometimes becomes a habit that needs to be discouraged. The Pomeranian has one primary purpose and that is to please its owners. It sometimes shies away from children that play too rough. The Pomeranian may not be a good choice for a household with children or as a child’s pet. They socialize easily with cats and other small family pets.
The Pomeranian is definitely one of those big dogs in a little package. They usually won’t back down from a much larger dog. This aggressiveness can be self-destructive as obviously a bigger dog could make mince meat of a tiny Pomeranian.
The Pomeranian is eager to learn and is devoted to its family. He is affectionate and has a very loving nature toward its own family. He is delightful and is always ready for a quick game with those he loves.
The Pomeranian responds to command if they are consistently given and he is rewarded with edible treats or kind words. The Pomeranian has a tendency to become somewhat of a “spoiled brat.” When his bad habits surface he may simply ignore commands to “act better.” He is rarely seen in agility trials; however, the Pomeranian does well in obedience trials.
Appearance
A Pomeranian stands about 7 to 8 inches tall and weighs from 3 to 7 pounds. The tiny Pomeranian has a short body, straight legs and well-balanced overall appearance. He has erect ears and a fox like expression that gives this little dog an alert expression. Pigmentation of the nose, lips and eyelids are always dark, usually black.
The Pomeranian’s coat is double and profuse. Acceptable colors are red, orange, cream and sable, black, brown and blue.
Grooming the Pomeranian
The coat of a Pomeranian is made up of an undercoat and an outer coat. The undercoat is soft and fluffy. The outer coat is fairly long, straight and harsh and covers the entire body.
There is an abundance of coat around the neck and the fore part of the shoulders and chest that forms a frill that extends over the shoulder. The forequarters are well feathered and the thighs and hind legs are well feathered to the hocks.
The Pomeranian requires regular attention to keep it clean and attractive. Thorough brushing once a week is required to keep the coat in good condition.
You will need a slicker/pin brush, medium-tooth metal comb, scissors and cotton buds.
Brush against the lie of the coat to give the Pomeranian its round pompom appearance. Brush first with the slicker/pin brush working from the top of the head, layering the hair as you go and be sure you reach the skin level. Then work through the coat with the comb to remove any tangles left behind from the brushing.
You might consider using a dry bath on your Pomeranian’s coat when in full coat. When the Pomeranian is in full coat, use a suitable pH-alkaline-balanced shampoo and rinse well.
A Little Bit About The Chihuahua
The Chihuahua is know by no other name and has been popular north and south of the Rio Grande for many years. It is the oldest purebred canine native to the North American continent.
The Chihuahua’s origin is filled with tales and extends back to the Toltec civilization of Mexico in the ninth century. Discovery of the earliest Chihuahuas were in the state of Chihuahua, Mexico. Ancestors of the Chihuahua could include a small hairless Chinese dog, which could account for the size reduction of the original Chihuahua. The ancient people in Mexico first developed a prairie dog or gopher, which was mute, longhaired and larger than the present-day Chihuahua.
Tales are many about the uses of this tiny dog in Toltec and later Aztec religious rites. Nearly all Chihuahua fanciers accept one fact: This is that the modern Chihuahua that was discovered in Chihuahua, Mexico, in the mid-1800s stands apart from all other canines. This tiny breed prefers its own kind to all other dogs. The Chihuahua can be sociable with other dogs, but most definitely still is more content when surrounded by other Chihuahuas. Because of this fact it probably is not a good idea to own other pets if you desire to own a Chihuahua. Your household will be better of with multiple Chihuahuas if that is your chosen breed.
The Chihuahua has no claims of ties to royalty and any hunting abilities or heritage. The Chihuahua is known primarily as a wonderful little social able human companion and that is the main purpose of the Chihuahua today and in time past. The Chihuahua is quite content to have no work assigned to it. He fits nicely even in the smallest spaces and is content to spend his days lying in the sun or being pampered by its humans. The Chihuahua makes a perfect pocket pal and can travel with you just about anywhere almost invisible to strangers. The Chihuahua is not a big eater; therefore, food expense for the Chihuahua is quite minimal. He actually requires no kind of special care beyond a warm place to sleep and his treasured humans.
Chihuahua is usually most comfortable with senior adults and other adult families. They do not fit well into homes with preschoolers, toddlers or young adolescents. Preschoolers may try to grab at the Chihuahua, toddlers are likely to step on it or fall over it and young adolescents in their busy rush of a day may injure it.
Personality
The Chihuahua will usually claim ownership of one family member with whom it bonds tightly. He is brave, loyal, affectionate and intelligent that can be highly sensitive and stubborn. He does not do well walking on a leash and being taken for long walks. It is just easier to pick up the Chihuahua and carry him on your walk rather than have him in a collar and on a leash. They are mostly house companions and adornments. Some are able to learn tricks and may even enjoy performing for guests.
Appearance
The Chihuahua has no height standard but usually stands about 5 inches tall and weighs no more than 6 pounds. Its skull is described as an apple dome shape, with or without a spot spot. Its muzzle is short and pointed. The Chihuahua is shown in smooth- and longhaired varieties. The smooth variety’s coat should be soft, glossy and close. The longhaired variety coat has a soft texture withor without waves or curls, its ears are edged with fringes, and its tail, feet, legs and neck are well feathered. Colors are any color or combination of colrs, solid, marked, or splashed.
Grooming
You will need a cushioned bristle brush and a medium-toothed comb for both the smooth coat and long haired varieties. The long haired Chihuahua is easy to maintain with weekly brushing. The short haired coat also benefits from weekly brushings. You can use a chamois cloth to bring the coat up to a shine in the short haired Chihuhua.
Is It A Whale, A Shark Or A Dolphin?
A bit of imagination, music, movies, novels and live entertainment can all have the same topic: marine creatures. In fact, when you hear some relaxation music themed around whale songs, that you read a novel titled Moby Dick, which is a legendary white sperm whale or even some facts about the blue whale, being the largest mammal on Earth, it is easy to think of whales.
The confusion comes when the term whale is part of a sea creature’s name. You see, when people talk about sharks, their mind is subdued by both the theme song and the horrific scenes that are part of the movie Jaws. The last thing that you would think of when observing or even swimming along the side of a whale shark, that such a large and peaceful animal may belong to the same family tree as the great white shark instead of the blue whale.
Another confusing sea creature is the killer whale. After all, doesn’t its name imply that it a whale while in fact it belongs to the dolphins’ family tree? Where is the resemblance with Flipper, the bottlenose dolphin? Isn’t it a marine mammal? Isn’t it big enough to be part of the whale family alongside the sperm whale?
Did you know that in fact, several sites, which are supposedly educational or well versed on these subjects, are still confused with the nature of each one of these sea creatures? Well, here are some facts that will help you differentiate each one of these animals.
First of all, while some people think that size matters and that in it would be good enough to categorize all these animals under the same family tree, the whales, there are some differences that should be noted. After all, not all trees or bushes have the same size. Not everything that looks like a carrot or a banana is the same type of food. A vegetable that could look like a carrot could in fact be a parsnip and something that looks like a banana could in reality be a plantain. Either way, they may have some similarities without being the same.
Besides the facts that the whale shark eats plankton and could easily compete in size with a few types of whales, the similarities stop there. Here are the facts about this animal that is in fact part of the family tree that covers about 350 types of sharks. You see, the first thing that you should know is that the whale shark is a fish. Unlike whales and dolphins, it is not a marine mammal so it does not need to go to the surface every 30 minutes to inhale some oxygen and release some carbon dioxide through its blowhole to survive. In fact, it doesn’t even have a blowhole. The oxygen intake is done through gills during the process of filtering the water.
Another fact is that it does not have a skeleton made of bones like whales and dolphins do, its own is cartilaginous. Also, the whale shark is viviparous, which means that it gives birth to live pups but does not produce milk or feed, or raise them the same way as marine mammals do. Starting at birth, like all types of sharks, the whale shark pups are on their own.
While some people think that killer whales should be in the same category as the sperm whale, which is part of the toothed whales called odontoceti, which they also belong to, there are some differences that apply in this case. You see, the killer whale is the single specie carrying the Orcinus gene.
Also, the physiology of this specie has its differences such as the shape of the dorsal fin. The killer whale as a large triangular dorsal fin, which is totally different is the sperm whale. You see, the dorsal fin of the sperm whale is located about two-thirds of the back, is short and certainly not as noticeable as the killer whale’s dorsal fin.
Another characteristic that differs in sperm whales and killer whales are their teeth. You see, both their teeth differ in size despite their similar hook shape but it doesn’t stop there. If you take a good look at pictures of their teeth on the Internet or in a book, you will notice that a sperm whale only has a row of teeth on its bottom jaw, while killer whale has a row of teeth on both upper and lower jaws.
As you can see, the whale shark, the blue whale, the sperm whale and killer whale’s only thing that make people believe they are all members of the whales’ family is the term “whale” being part of their name.
The confusion comes when the term whale is part of a sea creature’s name. You see, when people talk about sharks, their mind is subdued by both the theme song and the horrific scenes that are part of the movie Jaws. The last thing that you would think of when observing or even swimming along the side of a whale shark, that such a large and peaceful animal may belong to the same family tree as the great white shark instead of the blue whale.
Another confusing sea creature is the killer whale. After all, doesn’t its name imply that it a whale while in fact it belongs to the dolphins’ family tree? Where is the resemblance with Flipper, the bottlenose dolphin? Isn’t it a marine mammal? Isn’t it big enough to be part of the whale family alongside the sperm whale?
Did you know that in fact, several sites, which are supposedly educational or well versed on these subjects, are still confused with the nature of each one of these sea creatures? Well, here are some facts that will help you differentiate each one of these animals.
First of all, while some people think that size matters and that in it would be good enough to categorize all these animals under the same family tree, the whales, there are some differences that should be noted. After all, not all trees or bushes have the same size. Not everything that looks like a carrot or a banana is the same type of food. A vegetable that could look like a carrot could in fact be a parsnip and something that looks like a banana could in reality be a plantain. Either way, they may have some similarities without being the same.
Besides the facts that the whale shark eats plankton and could easily compete in size with a few types of whales, the similarities stop there. Here are the facts about this animal that is in fact part of the family tree that covers about 350 types of sharks. You see, the first thing that you should know is that the whale shark is a fish. Unlike whales and dolphins, it is not a marine mammal so it does not need to go to the surface every 30 minutes to inhale some oxygen and release some carbon dioxide through its blowhole to survive. In fact, it doesn’t even have a blowhole. The oxygen intake is done through gills during the process of filtering the water.
Another fact is that it does not have a skeleton made of bones like whales and dolphins do, its own is cartilaginous. Also, the whale shark is viviparous, which means that it gives birth to live pups but does not produce milk or feed, or raise them the same way as marine mammals do. Starting at birth, like all types of sharks, the whale shark pups are on their own.
While some people think that killer whales should be in the same category as the sperm whale, which is part of the toothed whales called odontoceti, which they also belong to, there are some differences that apply in this case. You see, the killer whale is the single specie carrying the Orcinus gene.
Also, the physiology of this specie has its differences such as the shape of the dorsal fin. The killer whale as a large triangular dorsal fin, which is totally different is the sperm whale. You see, the dorsal fin of the sperm whale is located about two-thirds of the back, is short and certainly not as noticeable as the killer whale’s dorsal fin.
Another characteristic that differs in sperm whales and killer whales are their teeth. You see, both their teeth differ in size despite their similar hook shape but it doesn’t stop there. If you take a good look at pictures of their teeth on the Internet or in a book, you will notice that a sperm whale only has a row of teeth on its bottom jaw, while killer whale has a row of teeth on both upper and lower jaws.
As you can see, the whale shark, the blue whale, the sperm whale and killer whale’s only thing that make people believe they are all members of the whales’ family is the term “whale” being part of their name.
Box Turtle Care
Congratulations, you have a new box turtle. But how do you take care of your precious new friend? Taking care of a box turtle can take some work, but there are simple steps to ensure that your box turtle is happy in his new home.
First you must decide housing for the turtle. Will you keep it indoors or outdoors? If you decide to keep the turtle outside, make sure that the area is similar to the turtle’s natural habitat. There should be plenty of sun since box turtles are reptiles, but also shade in case the turtle becomes overheated under the constant heat of the sun. Provide water for your turtle so that it is deep enough for swimming. The home should have weed-like plants and insects for consumption. An outdoor setting is probably the home a turtle would choose. However, an indoor home properly made will keep your box turtle just as happy and safe.
If you build your turtle a home indoors, use a container like those made by Rubbermaid. The best option is to have a large, dark container that the turtle cannot see through. A turtle can become perplexed and frightened looking out of a clear container. One of my box turtles constantly tried to climb through the wall of his clear container, so I had to move him. The container should be large and filled a few inches deep with a substrate such as “Bed-a-Beast.” Then provide a hiding place for the turtle such as a hollow log. You should make a pool for the turtle since that is where a turtle usually poops. I used the plastic lid of a container for food. Make sure that the pool is not too deep. Every day, keep the entire tank moist by spraying the surfaces of the home.
Inside the home of the turtle, keep the temperature fairly warm in the lighted area- about 80 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Use UV-B light to keep the turtle healthy and active all day. Another option is to take your turtle outside to soak in the sun for about an hour a day. The natural sunlight is tremendously healthy for your turtle, although he may not enjoy it at first. Just remember, you know what’s best for your turtle. Keep an area away from the light so that the turtle can rest there when he’s had enough light. This is why it is important to have a container that is large enough for two distinct areas.
The food a turtle eats is obviously very important to its health. A person must watch his or her own diet. It is your responsibility, however, to feed your turtle healthy foods. A turtle will eat almost anything, from fruits and vegetables to insects and worms. Another factor you should consider is providing edible materials with high calcium levels such as boiled eggshells or a cuttlebone that you can buy at any pet store. One final hint to feeding your turtle- have fun with it. Be creative in feeding your turtle from day to day because you do not want to create an addiction to one food by feeding it the same thing each day. Keep the turtle’s diet balanced with half plant and half meat.
I have a few final hints below on how to take care of your new box turtle.
1. If your turtle does not eat, try soaking the food in water first. Or, if you are constantly there watching your turtle, he may never come eat the food. Unfortunately, you can easily frighten turtles, so leave your turtle alone to eat peacefully.
2. Change the water in an indoors home every day to keep it clean since that is the most likely place a turtle will defecate. When coaxing a turtle to do this, use warm water to help him.
3. If a turtle burrows deep into the substrate and does not come up for a few days, don’t worry. This is completely natural since turtles enjoy being in tight spaces. However, make sure that your turtle gets enough food.
4. Feed your turtle on a rock because this will help him scratch away extra-long toenails.
Just follow the easy tips above, and you will be an expert caretaker for your new turtle. Do not neglect your turtle since it is helpless without you. Be responsible and enjoy your friendship.
First you must decide housing for the turtle. Will you keep it indoors or outdoors? If you decide to keep the turtle outside, make sure that the area is similar to the turtle’s natural habitat. There should be plenty of sun since box turtles are reptiles, but also shade in case the turtle becomes overheated under the constant heat of the sun. Provide water for your turtle so that it is deep enough for swimming. The home should have weed-like plants and insects for consumption. An outdoor setting is probably the home a turtle would choose. However, an indoor home properly made will keep your box turtle just as happy and safe.
If you build your turtle a home indoors, use a container like those made by Rubbermaid. The best option is to have a large, dark container that the turtle cannot see through. A turtle can become perplexed and frightened looking out of a clear container. One of my box turtles constantly tried to climb through the wall of his clear container, so I had to move him. The container should be large and filled a few inches deep with a substrate such as “Bed-a-Beast.” Then provide a hiding place for the turtle such as a hollow log. You should make a pool for the turtle since that is where a turtle usually poops. I used the plastic lid of a container for food. Make sure that the pool is not too deep. Every day, keep the entire tank moist by spraying the surfaces of the home.
Inside the home of the turtle, keep the temperature fairly warm in the lighted area- about 80 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Use UV-B light to keep the turtle healthy and active all day. Another option is to take your turtle outside to soak in the sun for about an hour a day. The natural sunlight is tremendously healthy for your turtle, although he may not enjoy it at first. Just remember, you know what’s best for your turtle. Keep an area away from the light so that the turtle can rest there when he’s had enough light. This is why it is important to have a container that is large enough for two distinct areas.
The food a turtle eats is obviously very important to its health. A person must watch his or her own diet. It is your responsibility, however, to feed your turtle healthy foods. A turtle will eat almost anything, from fruits and vegetables to insects and worms. Another factor you should consider is providing edible materials with high calcium levels such as boiled eggshells or a cuttlebone that you can buy at any pet store. One final hint to feeding your turtle- have fun with it. Be creative in feeding your turtle from day to day because you do not want to create an addiction to one food by feeding it the same thing each day. Keep the turtle’s diet balanced with half plant and half meat.
I have a few final hints below on how to take care of your new box turtle.
1. If your turtle does not eat, try soaking the food in water first. Or, if you are constantly there watching your turtle, he may never come eat the food. Unfortunately, you can easily frighten turtles, so leave your turtle alone to eat peacefully.
2. Change the water in an indoors home every day to keep it clean since that is the most likely place a turtle will defecate. When coaxing a turtle to do this, use warm water to help him.
3. If a turtle burrows deep into the substrate and does not come up for a few days, don’t worry. This is completely natural since turtles enjoy being in tight spaces. However, make sure that your turtle gets enough food.
4. Feed your turtle on a rock because this will help him scratch away extra-long toenails.
Just follow the easy tips above, and you will be an expert caretaker for your new turtle. Do not neglect your turtle since it is helpless without you. Be responsible and enjoy your friendship.
Train Your Cat To Be Groomed
Grooming for a cat should be done on a daily basis for proper care of your cat. In addition, with the proper care, your cat will stay healthy.
Brushing, combing, clipping nails, and cleaning ears, are grooming that needs to be done. By doing basic grooming on a regular basis will help in prevention with scratching furniture, and hairball management.
Hairball management can be managed using different products that can help with the hairball for the cat. Do not confuse this to substitute for this part of the grooming. Learn more about these products at your favorite pet store or internet site.
When training your cat for grooming, one of the first things you will want done, is to have the cat to be able to relax in your lap. By petting your cat gently on the head and then you will want to pet him down the back and continue till you see that your cat is comfortable with you petting him in the areas that you will be grooming. Next, you will want to press gently on the paw pads to look at the nails, you will want to work on checking the ears. When you have achieved all these things, this is the time to introduce the brush by letting him check the brush out. Carefully start to brush him until you see your cat being comfortable with the brush. Remember a cat’s skin is sensitive and you will want to take real gentle precaution when grooming.
Training your cat to be comb will be the same step you have taken to be able to brush your cat. Be gentle, cats hair is easily matted, snarled, and skin sensitive. If you using precaution with doing the combing and you cause pain to your cat, they may not let you do this. Brushing a cat’s hair is very important, also with long hair cats combing needs to be done. With combing it helps get out the lose hair, and will make a nice looking fur for the cat.
Clipping nails, if you have never clipped your cat’s nails, please talk to a veterinarian, a local groomers, search articles about it, read books, and be very careful when you are cutting them. One thing to practice is having some one with you to help with this, so if the cat tries to move you have reinforcements. When cutting a cat’s nail, toward the paw is a pink area that you do not want to clip. This will be very painful for the cat and a visit to the vet quickly. Make sure when doing this that the cat is very comfortable with you touching its paws. Talk to him when cutting the nails to reassure it is fine and soon will be done. If your cat seems annoyed with cutting their nails, stop, and try later. If you are unable to do this, cat groomers trained to cut nails can do this for you and most time very inexpensive, a lot less then a vet bill.
Cleaning your cat’s ears is another basic grooming process, as in the first part of the article, makes sure the cat is comfortable with the touching of their ears. Once you know that you are able to touch your cat’s ears, now is the time to clean.
Use soft tip q-tips for this part, gently at first rub the q-tip around the out side of the ear working your way to the inside to be able to clean the ear. If at any time the cat resist, stop redirect the cat and then continue until you can successfully clean the ears.
Grooming your cat is also caring for your pet; just feeding your cat is caring. Grooming is also a great way to interact with your pet, for healthy relationships.
Search out more information on training your pet, tools to help with the training and caring for your pet. Check out books, pet stores, search on the internet there are great articles, ideas, and suggestions on training your pet. One way of training may not work but some one else may have different approach. Not all cats train the same, just as we do not teach the same.
Brushing, combing, clipping nails, and cleaning ears, are grooming that needs to be done. By doing basic grooming on a regular basis will help in prevention with scratching furniture, and hairball management.
Hairball management can be managed using different products that can help with the hairball for the cat. Do not confuse this to substitute for this part of the grooming. Learn more about these products at your favorite pet store or internet site.
When training your cat for grooming, one of the first things you will want done, is to have the cat to be able to relax in your lap. By petting your cat gently on the head and then you will want to pet him down the back and continue till you see that your cat is comfortable with you petting him in the areas that you will be grooming. Next, you will want to press gently on the paw pads to look at the nails, you will want to work on checking the ears. When you have achieved all these things, this is the time to introduce the brush by letting him check the brush out. Carefully start to brush him until you see your cat being comfortable with the brush. Remember a cat’s skin is sensitive and you will want to take real gentle precaution when grooming.
Training your cat to be comb will be the same step you have taken to be able to brush your cat. Be gentle, cats hair is easily matted, snarled, and skin sensitive. If you using precaution with doing the combing and you cause pain to your cat, they may not let you do this. Brushing a cat’s hair is very important, also with long hair cats combing needs to be done. With combing it helps get out the lose hair, and will make a nice looking fur for the cat.
Clipping nails, if you have never clipped your cat’s nails, please talk to a veterinarian, a local groomers, search articles about it, read books, and be very careful when you are cutting them. One thing to practice is having some one with you to help with this, so if the cat tries to move you have reinforcements. When cutting a cat’s nail, toward the paw is a pink area that you do not want to clip. This will be very painful for the cat and a visit to the vet quickly. Make sure when doing this that the cat is very comfortable with you touching its paws. Talk to him when cutting the nails to reassure it is fine and soon will be done. If your cat seems annoyed with cutting their nails, stop, and try later. If you are unable to do this, cat groomers trained to cut nails can do this for you and most time very inexpensive, a lot less then a vet bill.
Cleaning your cat’s ears is another basic grooming process, as in the first part of the article, makes sure the cat is comfortable with the touching of their ears. Once you know that you are able to touch your cat’s ears, now is the time to clean.
Use soft tip q-tips for this part, gently at first rub the q-tip around the out side of the ear working your way to the inside to be able to clean the ear. If at any time the cat resist, stop redirect the cat and then continue until you can successfully clean the ears.
Grooming your cat is also caring for your pet; just feeding your cat is caring. Grooming is also a great way to interact with your pet, for healthy relationships.
Search out more information on training your pet, tools to help with the training and caring for your pet. Check out books, pet stores, search on the internet there are great articles, ideas, and suggestions on training your pet. One way of training may not work but some one else may have different approach. Not all cats train the same, just as we do not teach the same.
Colorful Black Labradors
Out of all of the different types and colors of Labradors, the black Labrador is one of the most popular. Black Labradors are usually solid black in color. They are sleek and graceful looking animals. They are a large breed of dog and must be taken seriously because they can harm small children or frail individuals because they have so much enthusiasm for life and they want to play with everyone. However, black Labradors are very smart and they learn quickly. They can be trained quite easily not to jump up on people or cause other problems because of their energy levels and large size. Some people might be frightened by large dogs such as the black Labrador, but spending time with these dogs will show most people that there is nothing to fear except that you might be licked with much enthusiasm.
Pay Attention To Energy Levels
There are many different breeds of dogs in this world today, and they can differ not just in their looks but in their temperament and their energy level as well. This is important to be aware of when looking into getting a large dog such as the black Labrador. High energy dogs are often very enjoyable to the person or the family that likes a lot of outdoor activity, but this type of dog might not be as good of a choice for the person that works all day or lives in an apartment. This does not mean that the black Labrador would not make a good pet, but it is not healthy for the dog to be closed up in an apartment all day and could result in destructive behavior simply because the dog would be bored.
Big Dogs Need Big Spaces
For those that are interested in owning a black Labrador, space must be considered. Those who live in apartments either do not own dogs or only own small dogs because large dogs with a lot of energy are often unhappy in an apartment all day. However, for the family that has space for a large dog, a black Labrador would be a good choice because they make good guard dogs yet are gentle and affectionate with people that they know including small children.
Pay Attention To Energy Levels
There are many different breeds of dogs in this world today, and they can differ not just in their looks but in their temperament and their energy level as well. This is important to be aware of when looking into getting a large dog such as the black Labrador. High energy dogs are often very enjoyable to the person or the family that likes a lot of outdoor activity, but this type of dog might not be as good of a choice for the person that works all day or lives in an apartment. This does not mean that the black Labrador would not make a good pet, but it is not healthy for the dog to be closed up in an apartment all day and could result in destructive behavior simply because the dog would be bored.
Big Dogs Need Big Spaces
For those that are interested in owning a black Labrador, space must be considered. Those who live in apartments either do not own dogs or only own small dogs because large dogs with a lot of energy are often unhappy in an apartment all day. However, for the family that has space for a large dog, a black Labrador would be a good choice because they make good guard dogs yet are gentle and affectionate with people that they know including small children.
How To Get Rid Of Raccoons
Many of you know that raccoons are known to adapt very easily to a changing environment that is why many people have problems with the damages caused by these creatures. Raccoons have inherited a bad habit: they vandalize garbage cans, fish ponds and also your very own kitchen pantry due to the fact that many houses ( especially in United States ) have a pet door which for a raccoons is like an invitation.
Besides this, raccoons invade attics, chimneys, porches and other similar locations, not to mention that the cities and suburbs offer these creatures a developed underground roadway system for those intelligent animals who use these storm sewers. These raccoons not only invade your privacy but also they cause damage, for example, they can get into crops or just by simply occupying your chimney they make annoying little sounds that eventually will drive you crazy.
The first thing you should do is to find out if you are truly having problems with raccoons because many people have the tendency to affirm that raccoons are the one’s to blame for the damages but in reality, the one’s who should be blamed for causing these problems are dogs, cats or other “friendly” animals.
If you don’t have the possibility to observe these animals directly the best thing you could do is to identify their tracks. In order to do this you should use the following : flour, nontoxic powders and also cornstarch, these will help you to check out footprints on hard surfaces. A useful tip : raccoons which use chimneys or attics usually begin to make noise when it is getting darker and they stop doing this in the morning, when the sun makes its appearance. The sounds that raccoons make when they are moving can help you detect them more easily. Also, if you hear purring noises then you should know that young cubs are present. Usually, you will hear these noises when their mother comes back to the den.
A wise thing you could do if you have problems with raccoons is simply wait; in other words, many of the problems made by raccoons ( for example: occupation of a building ) resolve themselves within a few weeks or if you are lucky, in a few days. If cubs are also causing you problems then you should know that they won’t leave your attic until they are nine weeks of age because until then, they can’t take care of themselves so they won’t venture in an unknown environment where they will be helpless.
When it comes down to chimneys and attics if yours is uncapped then raccoons will probably use it for denning but also for giving birth and raising cubs. If you assume that after a while they will leave, the best thing you should is that you might try using some harassment techniques so that you could “hurry” their departure. Also, you might as well leave the attic lights on or place a radio tuned to a talk-show and leave it a high volume.
Once you are certain that you got rid of all the raccoons, the first thing you should do is install an approved chimney cap so that in the future, raccoons won’t be able to invade your privacy. A very important note is that you shouldn’t use fire or smoke to make the animals come out of the chimneys because by doing so, you will most likely kill the youngsters as they aren’t able to evade on their own.
When it comes down to yards and gardens, in order to discourage garbage vandalizing you should place cans at the curb when the day of garbage pick-up has arrived. Another thing you could do is that you should secure the lids using bungee cords or weights. Don’t forget that raccoons are often attracted by birdseed and suet and they usually cause a lot of damage to garden fruits and also vegetable gardens , especially corn and grapes. Garden vandalizing will often occur when the foods are ready to be picked so you should be more attentive during those periods.
All in all, raccoons can cause a lot of problems so some safety precautions should be taken in order to avoid these problems which can become very annoying if ignored for a longer period of time.
Summary: Getting rid of raccoons can become a very frustrating thing to do if you don’t take the best decisions. Patience and clever thinking are a “must” when confronting with such a delicate situation.
Besides this, raccoons invade attics, chimneys, porches and other similar locations, not to mention that the cities and suburbs offer these creatures a developed underground roadway system for those intelligent animals who use these storm sewers. These raccoons not only invade your privacy but also they cause damage, for example, they can get into crops or just by simply occupying your chimney they make annoying little sounds that eventually will drive you crazy.
The first thing you should do is to find out if you are truly having problems with raccoons because many people have the tendency to affirm that raccoons are the one’s to blame for the damages but in reality, the one’s who should be blamed for causing these problems are dogs, cats or other “friendly” animals.
If you don’t have the possibility to observe these animals directly the best thing you could do is to identify their tracks. In order to do this you should use the following : flour, nontoxic powders and also cornstarch, these will help you to check out footprints on hard surfaces. A useful tip : raccoons which use chimneys or attics usually begin to make noise when it is getting darker and they stop doing this in the morning, when the sun makes its appearance. The sounds that raccoons make when they are moving can help you detect them more easily. Also, if you hear purring noises then you should know that young cubs are present. Usually, you will hear these noises when their mother comes back to the den.
A wise thing you could do if you have problems with raccoons is simply wait; in other words, many of the problems made by raccoons ( for example: occupation of a building ) resolve themselves within a few weeks or if you are lucky, in a few days. If cubs are also causing you problems then you should know that they won’t leave your attic until they are nine weeks of age because until then, they can’t take care of themselves so they won’t venture in an unknown environment where they will be helpless.
When it comes down to chimneys and attics if yours is uncapped then raccoons will probably use it for denning but also for giving birth and raising cubs. If you assume that after a while they will leave, the best thing you should is that you might try using some harassment techniques so that you could “hurry” their departure. Also, you might as well leave the attic lights on or place a radio tuned to a talk-show and leave it a high volume.
Once you are certain that you got rid of all the raccoons, the first thing you should do is install an approved chimney cap so that in the future, raccoons won’t be able to invade your privacy. A very important note is that you shouldn’t use fire or smoke to make the animals come out of the chimneys because by doing so, you will most likely kill the youngsters as they aren’t able to evade on their own.
When it comes down to yards and gardens, in order to discourage garbage vandalizing you should place cans at the curb when the day of garbage pick-up has arrived. Another thing you could do is that you should secure the lids using bungee cords or weights. Don’t forget that raccoons are often attracted by birdseed and suet and they usually cause a lot of damage to garden fruits and also vegetable gardens , especially corn and grapes. Garden vandalizing will often occur when the foods are ready to be picked so you should be more attentive during those periods.
All in all, raccoons can cause a lot of problems so some safety precautions should be taken in order to avoid these problems which can become very annoying if ignored for a longer period of time.
Summary: Getting rid of raccoons can become a very frustrating thing to do if you don’t take the best decisions. Patience and clever thinking are a “must” when confronting with such a delicate situation.
Caring for the Orphaned Foal
There's nothing worse than looking forward to the arrival of a well-bred foal, only to lose the mare during the birthing process. While raising a foal orphaned at birth can be extremely challenging, there are ways to up the odds of the foal surviving to become a productive member of equine society.
The Importance of Colostrum
The first task at hand should be ensuring that the foal gets a sufficient amount of colostrum. Colostrum, which is the mare's first milk, is loaded with disease-and infection-fighting antibodies. Because mares don't pass antibodies to their foals during pregnancy, adequate colostrum consumption is necessary for the newborn to be protected against disease.
About 12 hours after birth gastrointestinal absorption of colostrum begins to decrease, and absorption is only minimal after 24 hours. Colostrum can be bottle fed the orphaned foal, or given via stomach tube by a vet. Ideally, two or three liters of colostrum should be divided into three or four doses, which should be given at hourly intervals.
Where do you get colostrum? First of all, if a mare is at risk of dying, colostrum should be harvested. In addtion, breeders should always collect a little extra from foaling mares to have on hand in emergencies, providing the mare has enough colostrum. In most cases, about 200 to 500 ml of colostrum can be milked from a mare without compromising the antibodies she passes on to her foal. The colostrum can then be frozen and used when necessary.
Nutrition
Once enough colostrum has been consumed by the foal, the next order of business is to establish a good nutrition plan. Breeders have two basic options when feeding the orphaned foal. They can (1) use a nurse mare or goat; or (2) bottle feed the foal by hand.
Because it significantly reduces the amount of labor nurse mares are always the first choice. However, nurse mares are hard to find, and even when they are found sometimes refuse to nurse the foal. A milk-producing goat can also be used with some modifications.
In most cases, a manual feeding plan is developed. These can be quite labor-intensive! In the beginning, the foal is usually fed mare's milk, goat's milk, or a powdered substitute. Many breeders also used tried-and-true homemade mare's milk substitutes. Within a few weeks foals should be able to begin eating solid foods such as grain, grass, or hay.
So, how much does a foal eat? Well, you might be surprised to learn that a suckling foal can consume as much as 25 percent of its body weight per day of a milk replacer without stomach distress. These means that a 100-pound foal can consume 25 pounds—or 50 cups—of milk per day. Wow! To this end, it's always a good idea to teach your foal to drink from a bucket. It will cut down on the amount of time you need to spend manually feeding! It's also worth mentioning that smaller, more frequent meals are healthier for the foal than larger, less frequent meals.
General Health
It's important to keep a close eye on the newborn's general health, especially if mare was sick before delivery. A sick mare can sometimes result in an undernourished foal. Check to see that your foal stands, walks, and exhibits the sucking reflex within two or three hours of birth. Watch foals that appear healthy carefully to make sure they don't deteriorate within the first 24 hours, which is not uncommon.
* * * * *
While many believe an orphaned foal's growth and health will be compromised, this is not always the case. With proper colostrum intake, as well as a good feeding and care regimen, your foal should suffer no long-term effects.
The Importance of Colostrum
The first task at hand should be ensuring that the foal gets a sufficient amount of colostrum. Colostrum, which is the mare's first milk, is loaded with disease-and infection-fighting antibodies. Because mares don't pass antibodies to their foals during pregnancy, adequate colostrum consumption is necessary for the newborn to be protected against disease.
About 12 hours after birth gastrointestinal absorption of colostrum begins to decrease, and absorption is only minimal after 24 hours. Colostrum can be bottle fed the orphaned foal, or given via stomach tube by a vet. Ideally, two or three liters of colostrum should be divided into three or four doses, which should be given at hourly intervals.
Where do you get colostrum? First of all, if a mare is at risk of dying, colostrum should be harvested. In addtion, breeders should always collect a little extra from foaling mares to have on hand in emergencies, providing the mare has enough colostrum. In most cases, about 200 to 500 ml of colostrum can be milked from a mare without compromising the antibodies she passes on to her foal. The colostrum can then be frozen and used when necessary.
Nutrition
Once enough colostrum has been consumed by the foal, the next order of business is to establish a good nutrition plan. Breeders have two basic options when feeding the orphaned foal. They can (1) use a nurse mare or goat; or (2) bottle feed the foal by hand.
Because it significantly reduces the amount of labor nurse mares are always the first choice. However, nurse mares are hard to find, and even when they are found sometimes refuse to nurse the foal. A milk-producing goat can also be used with some modifications.
In most cases, a manual feeding plan is developed. These can be quite labor-intensive! In the beginning, the foal is usually fed mare's milk, goat's milk, or a powdered substitute. Many breeders also used tried-and-true homemade mare's milk substitutes. Within a few weeks foals should be able to begin eating solid foods such as grain, grass, or hay.
So, how much does a foal eat? Well, you might be surprised to learn that a suckling foal can consume as much as 25 percent of its body weight per day of a milk replacer without stomach distress. These means that a 100-pound foal can consume 25 pounds—or 50 cups—of milk per day. Wow! To this end, it's always a good idea to teach your foal to drink from a bucket. It will cut down on the amount of time you need to spend manually feeding! It's also worth mentioning that smaller, more frequent meals are healthier for the foal than larger, less frequent meals.
General Health
It's important to keep a close eye on the newborn's general health, especially if mare was sick before delivery. A sick mare can sometimes result in an undernourished foal. Check to see that your foal stands, walks, and exhibits the sucking reflex within two or three hours of birth. Watch foals that appear healthy carefully to make sure they don't deteriorate within the first 24 hours, which is not uncommon.
* * * * *
While many believe an orphaned foal's growth and health will be compromised, this is not always the case. With proper colostrum intake, as well as a good feeding and care regimen, your foal should suffer no long-term effects.
Common Parasites in the Horse
Protecting your horse against parasites is part of good barn management. Whether you are the owner of single horse or make your living as a boarding stable, you should have a good parasite prevention plan in place. Deworming your horses at regular intervals will keep parasites at bay and will ensure your horse's maximum health and safety.
What are some of the more common nasties just itching to sponge off your equine friends? Check out these parasite profiles.
* Large Strongyles (Strongylus vulgaris and Strongylus edentatus). Otherwise known as bloodworms, large strongyles are an internal parasite known to be the most destructive and deadly of them all. Why are they so destructive? Well, as immature larvae migrate through the blood vessels, they destroy arterial walls, block or rupture blood vessels, impair circulation, and damage organ and tissues. Not exactly the most polite of guests, are they? Seriously, large strongyles are no joke! The havoc they wreak can result in colic, anemia, diarrhea, fever, lethargy, depression, and loss of appetite. How to prevent large strongyles from getting the best of your horse? Use a dewormer that treats both adult worms and the more destructive arterial larvae. Ask your veterinarian for a recommendation, as many dewormers treat only the less dangerous adult worms.
* Small strongyles. Small stronglyles live and migrate within the intestinal tract. While they don't travel any further than this, they too can pack quite a punch. Small strongyles, if left undetected, can cause inflammation of the intestines, anorexia, weight loss, diarrhea, and colic. A good dewormer is your best defense.
* Ascarids (Parascaris equorum). Ascarids are also known by their more common name of roundworm. While ascarids are very dangerous parasites, they most often affect very young horse such as sucklings, weanlings, and yearlings. Ascarids in the migrating larval stages can damage a horse's lung and liver tissue. Some of the signs include lethargy, coughing, fever, pneumonia, and other infections and issues affecting the respiratory tract. Ascarids who reach the adult stage hang out in the small intestine, where they can cause problems like colic, ruptured gut, blockage, and death. They are dangerous nasties indeed, but can be easily prevented with a parasite protection program.
* Bots (Gastrophilus). How's this for weird? Bots are considered an internal parasite, and yet they live on the outside of a horse's body. Say what? Well, here's how it works. In its larval stage, the botfly lives in the horse's stomach and mouth. As it reaches maturity the bot leaves the internal environment and hangs out on the outside of the horse, where it creates more larvae to be ingested by the horse. At the very least, bots cause inflammation and sores in the mouth. They can also cause more serious problems like stomach irritation and ulceration and perforation of the stomach wall. In extreme cases, bots can block stomach outflow into the small intestine, causing colic and possibly death. Effectively ridding your horse's of bots requires a two-pronged approach. First, you'll need to treat the outside of your horses by removing bots with a special comb. Then you'll have to follow up by administering a dewormer.
* Pinworms. (Oxyuris equi). If your horse seems uncomfortable around the tail region—say there's a lot of itching and scratching going on—suspect pinworms. Pinworms live and mate in the horse's rectum, and cause such unpleasant issues as tail rubbing. Again, the right dewormer is all it takes to rid your horse of pinworms.
* Intestinal threadworms (Stronyloides westeri) Threadworms usually affect young horses. If your foal has diarrhea, lack of appetite, is losing weight or is not growing what you think is the right amount of hair, consider threadworms as a possible culprit. Since many dewormers don't effective treat threadworms, talk to your vet about a good course of action.
* Summer sores (Habronema and Draschia) If a fly deposits larvae in the open skin or a wound on the horse's body, the result is often summer sores. The larvae can cause conjunctivitis, nodules in the stomach wall, and gastritis.
Remember, there's no room at the inn for parasites! With good barn management, you can ensure that your horses remain parasite free.
What are some of the more common nasties just itching to sponge off your equine friends? Check out these parasite profiles.
* Large Strongyles (Strongylus vulgaris and Strongylus edentatus). Otherwise known as bloodworms, large strongyles are an internal parasite known to be the most destructive and deadly of them all. Why are they so destructive? Well, as immature larvae migrate through the blood vessels, they destroy arterial walls, block or rupture blood vessels, impair circulation, and damage organ and tissues. Not exactly the most polite of guests, are they? Seriously, large strongyles are no joke! The havoc they wreak can result in colic, anemia, diarrhea, fever, lethargy, depression, and loss of appetite. How to prevent large strongyles from getting the best of your horse? Use a dewormer that treats both adult worms and the more destructive arterial larvae. Ask your veterinarian for a recommendation, as many dewormers treat only the less dangerous adult worms.
* Small strongyles. Small stronglyles live and migrate within the intestinal tract. While they don't travel any further than this, they too can pack quite a punch. Small strongyles, if left undetected, can cause inflammation of the intestines, anorexia, weight loss, diarrhea, and colic. A good dewormer is your best defense.
* Ascarids (Parascaris equorum). Ascarids are also known by their more common name of roundworm. While ascarids are very dangerous parasites, they most often affect very young horse such as sucklings, weanlings, and yearlings. Ascarids in the migrating larval stages can damage a horse's lung and liver tissue. Some of the signs include lethargy, coughing, fever, pneumonia, and other infections and issues affecting the respiratory tract. Ascarids who reach the adult stage hang out in the small intestine, where they can cause problems like colic, ruptured gut, blockage, and death. They are dangerous nasties indeed, but can be easily prevented with a parasite protection program.
* Bots (Gastrophilus). How's this for weird? Bots are considered an internal parasite, and yet they live on the outside of a horse's body. Say what? Well, here's how it works. In its larval stage, the botfly lives in the horse's stomach and mouth. As it reaches maturity the bot leaves the internal environment and hangs out on the outside of the horse, where it creates more larvae to be ingested by the horse. At the very least, bots cause inflammation and sores in the mouth. They can also cause more serious problems like stomach irritation and ulceration and perforation of the stomach wall. In extreme cases, bots can block stomach outflow into the small intestine, causing colic and possibly death. Effectively ridding your horse's of bots requires a two-pronged approach. First, you'll need to treat the outside of your horses by removing bots with a special comb. Then you'll have to follow up by administering a dewormer.
* Pinworms. (Oxyuris equi). If your horse seems uncomfortable around the tail region—say there's a lot of itching and scratching going on—suspect pinworms. Pinworms live and mate in the horse's rectum, and cause such unpleasant issues as tail rubbing. Again, the right dewormer is all it takes to rid your horse of pinworms.
* Intestinal threadworms (Stronyloides westeri) Threadworms usually affect young horses. If your foal has diarrhea, lack of appetite, is losing weight or is not growing what you think is the right amount of hair, consider threadworms as a possible culprit. Since many dewormers don't effective treat threadworms, talk to your vet about a good course of action.
* Summer sores (Habronema and Draschia) If a fly deposits larvae in the open skin or a wound on the horse's body, the result is often summer sores. The larvae can cause conjunctivitis, nodules in the stomach wall, and gastritis.
Remember, there's no room at the inn for parasites! With good barn management, you can ensure that your horses remain parasite free.
Canine Parvovirus - A Serious Cantagious Disease in Dogs
Canine parvovirus, sometimes known simply as 'parvo,' is a serious contagious disease caused by a virus. This illness is spread when dogs come into contact with the feces of infected animals. Dog parks, highway rest stops and popular walking trails in cities are areas where dog feces are often found, and where an unvaccinated dog may pick up the virus. Humans may also unknowingly bring the virus home on the bottom of their shoes or on their car tires, so dogs who never go outside the yard can still be infected with this disease. The virus can live in the soil or other contaminated surfaces for as long as six months.
Most animal shelters and kennels make every effort to avoid the spread of contagious diseases by cleaning the kennels with bleach, but any time that large numbers of animals are kept in close quarters, there is a possibility of infection, so keeping up on your dog's vaccinations is always a good idea.
Although puppies are more commonly affected by this illness than adult dogs, both my brother and I once owned adult dogs who became seriously ill from canine parvovirus. Both animals had been vaccinated while in our care, but they were acquired after the dogs had reached adulthood, so they may not have received proper vaccination as puppies. Both dogs recovered, but only after several weeks of intensive in-hospital care.
Since this virus attacks the lining of the dog or puppy's digestive system, the symptoms of the disease are diarrhea, vomiting, lethargy, lack of appetite, and bloody, foul-smelling stools. In addition to severe abdominal discomfort, bloody diarrhea and vomiting, the dog may also have a high fever, and congestive heart failure is possible. Severe symptoms may follow several days of gradually decreasing appetite. Illness usually becomes apparent from three to 12 days after the dog was exposed to the virus.
Obviously, this is a very serious disease, and immediate medical care is required to reduce the risk of death. The veterinarian will make sure to keep the dog from becoming dangerously dehydrated, which can keep the dog or puppy alive long enough for its own immune system to fight the disease. Antibiotics are not effective against this virus, but they are usually given to an infected animal to help prevent the occurrence of secondary bacterial infections, which can cause shock or septicemia. Secondary infections can occur without antibiotics because parvovirus suppresses the dog's ability to make white blood cells. A blood test showing a low white blood cell count is one of the ways a veterinarian can make a diagnosis of canine parvovirus.
Because the illness causes severe dehydration, the dog will also be put on intravenous fluids, and the animal will probably need to stay under the doctor's care a week or more. Because the gastrointestinal tract has been affected, the veterinarian may withhold food and water from the dog until the virus has come under control.
Unfortunately, some dogs and puppies who survive a bout of parvovirus can be affected by symptoms six months or more after the original symptoms, particularly if the virus has infected the heart.
To prevent infection, puppies must be vaccinated under the proper schedule, and they should not be taken outside the yard or introduced to any other dogs until at least two weeks after the last puppy shots are administered. Some veterinarians and dog breeders suggest that you avoid dog parks entirely, even after your puppy has been vaccinated, because of the possibility of picking up this or other contagious canine illnesses. If you adopt an older dog from the local shelter, you should take him to your veterinarian for a checkup and ask that he be vaccinated, unless the shelter administered routine vaccinations while the dog was in their care.
Most animal shelters and kennels make every effort to avoid the spread of contagious diseases by cleaning the kennels with bleach, but any time that large numbers of animals are kept in close quarters, there is a possibility of infection, so keeping up on your dog's vaccinations is always a good idea.
Although puppies are more commonly affected by this illness than adult dogs, both my brother and I once owned adult dogs who became seriously ill from canine parvovirus. Both animals had been vaccinated while in our care, but they were acquired after the dogs had reached adulthood, so they may not have received proper vaccination as puppies. Both dogs recovered, but only after several weeks of intensive in-hospital care.
Since this virus attacks the lining of the dog or puppy's digestive system, the symptoms of the disease are diarrhea, vomiting, lethargy, lack of appetite, and bloody, foul-smelling stools. In addition to severe abdominal discomfort, bloody diarrhea and vomiting, the dog may also have a high fever, and congestive heart failure is possible. Severe symptoms may follow several days of gradually decreasing appetite. Illness usually becomes apparent from three to 12 days after the dog was exposed to the virus.
Obviously, this is a very serious disease, and immediate medical care is required to reduce the risk of death. The veterinarian will make sure to keep the dog from becoming dangerously dehydrated, which can keep the dog or puppy alive long enough for its own immune system to fight the disease. Antibiotics are not effective against this virus, but they are usually given to an infected animal to help prevent the occurrence of secondary bacterial infections, which can cause shock or septicemia. Secondary infections can occur without antibiotics because parvovirus suppresses the dog's ability to make white blood cells. A blood test showing a low white blood cell count is one of the ways a veterinarian can make a diagnosis of canine parvovirus.
Because the illness causes severe dehydration, the dog will also be put on intravenous fluids, and the animal will probably need to stay under the doctor's care a week or more. Because the gastrointestinal tract has been affected, the veterinarian may withhold food and water from the dog until the virus has come under control.
Unfortunately, some dogs and puppies who survive a bout of parvovirus can be affected by symptoms six months or more after the original symptoms, particularly if the virus has infected the heart.
To prevent infection, puppies must be vaccinated under the proper schedule, and they should not be taken outside the yard or introduced to any other dogs until at least two weeks after the last puppy shots are administered. Some veterinarians and dog breeders suggest that you avoid dog parks entirely, even after your puppy has been vaccinated, because of the possibility of picking up this or other contagious canine illnesses. If you adopt an older dog from the local shelter, you should take him to your veterinarian for a checkup and ask that he be vaccinated, unless the shelter administered routine vaccinations while the dog was in their care.
Fido's Fortress: Puppy Proofing Your Home
It’s safe to say, my dog has me well trained. My “best friend” since she was six weeks old, my precious pup is now a fourteen year old peke-a-poo, missing teeth, missing vision, and missing manners. She growls at me whenever she wants MY dinner, she awakes me at three a.m. so I can give her a drink from my glass and free her from having to walk the ten steps to her water bowl, and she bites me whenever I accidentally touch her as she sleeps in our bed (90 percent of the bed, she has decided, belongs to her ten pound frame). Yes, it’s fair to say, when it comes to my dog, I am nothing if not obedient.
I’d like to say it hasn’t always been like this; I’d like to claim that I once had the upper hand and behaved like, well, the superior species. But, the truth is, I never did. Even before I brought her home, I found myself running around and getting things ready for her arrival. I bought her everything she needed, stopping just short of getting her a diamond studded collar from Tiffany’s, and I puppy proofed my house; I puppy proofed my house like a maniac: there was no way my dog was going to get hurt in my, oh I’m sorry, her, home.
This brings me to the topic of puppy proofing. As essential as it is, it’s not that hard to overlook; new dog owners might find themselves forgetting to make a safe environment as they become so wrapped up simply in loving their puppy. Still, puppy proofing your house helps you assure that you will have a puppy to love. So, before you bring home your new bundle of joy, try to engage in the following:
Secure your cords: Like moths to flames, puppies have been known to flock towards electrical cords, placing them in their mouths, and chewing away. Not only does this ruin your cord, but it can give your puppy quite a shock. To avoid this, keep cords out of the area where your puppy will be. If it’s impossible to keep cords out completely – if your puppy is in the TV room, it might be hard to not have a cord for your plasma television – place them out of your puppy’s reach: hang them from something high, tape them to the wall, or purchase a wire cover.
Guard your Balcony: All puppies have some Christopher Columbus in them: they like to explore. While this is often harmless, when a puppy starts to explore high areas, such as a deck or upstairs balcony, they run the risk of falling. Since you probably won’t be able to keep an eye on your puppy twenty four hours a day, buying a balcony guard is your best bet. A balcony guard allows your puppy to explore higher areas all while assuring that he or she won’t suddenly be thrown off course.
Latch Your Cabinets: If there’s one thing puppies know how to do, it’s get into things they shouldn’t. Cabinets, particularly ones that house kitchen or bathroom trash, are prime goals for puppy pursuing. If successful in their venture, puppies can find things in cabinets that could harm them: household cleaners, chicken bones, mouse traps, bleach. Simply putting latches on your cabinets can assure your puppy won’t be able to open the door on this danger.
Hang Your Plants: I remember my dog, as a puppy, had an affinity for getting into plants. Sometimes she would dig them up, sometimes she would pee on them, and sometimes – mistaking them for a salad bar – she would eat them. This, turns out, wasn't a good idea: some plants are edible, but others can be poisonous. Your veterinarian can provide you with a list of plants that are harmful to pets, including Aloe Vera, tomato plants, rhododendron, English Ivy, and mistletoe. Instead of leaving these, or any plants, on ground level, hang them from the ceiling. Chances are your puppy won’t figure out how to use a ladder.
Puppy proofing your home can take time and money. But, it’s worth it all in the end. It helps us keep our best friend safe, which speaks to those of us who know that there is no such thing as “just a dog.”
I’d like to say it hasn’t always been like this; I’d like to claim that I once had the upper hand and behaved like, well, the superior species. But, the truth is, I never did. Even before I brought her home, I found myself running around and getting things ready for her arrival. I bought her everything she needed, stopping just short of getting her a diamond studded collar from Tiffany’s, and I puppy proofed my house; I puppy proofed my house like a maniac: there was no way my dog was going to get hurt in my, oh I’m sorry, her, home.
This brings me to the topic of puppy proofing. As essential as it is, it’s not that hard to overlook; new dog owners might find themselves forgetting to make a safe environment as they become so wrapped up simply in loving their puppy. Still, puppy proofing your house helps you assure that you will have a puppy to love. So, before you bring home your new bundle of joy, try to engage in the following:
Secure your cords: Like moths to flames, puppies have been known to flock towards electrical cords, placing them in their mouths, and chewing away. Not only does this ruin your cord, but it can give your puppy quite a shock. To avoid this, keep cords out of the area where your puppy will be. If it’s impossible to keep cords out completely – if your puppy is in the TV room, it might be hard to not have a cord for your plasma television – place them out of your puppy’s reach: hang them from something high, tape them to the wall, or purchase a wire cover.
Guard your Balcony: All puppies have some Christopher Columbus in them: they like to explore. While this is often harmless, when a puppy starts to explore high areas, such as a deck or upstairs balcony, they run the risk of falling. Since you probably won’t be able to keep an eye on your puppy twenty four hours a day, buying a balcony guard is your best bet. A balcony guard allows your puppy to explore higher areas all while assuring that he or she won’t suddenly be thrown off course.
Latch Your Cabinets: If there’s one thing puppies know how to do, it’s get into things they shouldn’t. Cabinets, particularly ones that house kitchen or bathroom trash, are prime goals for puppy pursuing. If successful in their venture, puppies can find things in cabinets that could harm them: household cleaners, chicken bones, mouse traps, bleach. Simply putting latches on your cabinets can assure your puppy won’t be able to open the door on this danger.
Hang Your Plants: I remember my dog, as a puppy, had an affinity for getting into plants. Sometimes she would dig them up, sometimes she would pee on them, and sometimes – mistaking them for a salad bar – she would eat them. This, turns out, wasn't a good idea: some plants are edible, but others can be poisonous. Your veterinarian can provide you with a list of plants that are harmful to pets, including Aloe Vera, tomato plants, rhododendron, English Ivy, and mistletoe. Instead of leaving these, or any plants, on ground level, hang them from the ceiling. Chances are your puppy won’t figure out how to use a ladder.
Puppy proofing your home can take time and money. But, it’s worth it all in the end. It helps us keep our best friend safe, which speaks to those of us who know that there is no such thing as “just a dog.”
Sunday, August 12, 2007
Labrador Retriever
The breed standard
The Labrador Retriever is a large, powerful-looking dog with a blocky head, drop ears, a sleek, short coat, and a strong otter-like tail that can clear a coffee table in the blink of an eye. Weighing in at 60-80 pounds and standing 22.5-24.5 inches at the shoulder with a thick neck and strong quarters, he is a working dog in need of exercise to stay in shape.
Large nostrils, deep chest, and well-sprung ribs give testimony to his stamina, and his wide jaws and muzzle give him the ability to retrieve even big waterfowl such as the larger races of Canada geese. This is a stocky dog with moderately long legs; he should not be lanky or stubby and should be well-balanced with an appearance of endurance.
The short Lab coat is very dense and repels water, thus protecting the dog from chill as he goes about his work. The coat sheds rather more than one might expect, especially around the haunches. The coat comes in jet black, pale to deep chocolate, and yellow, which can actually range from cream to russet.
Care and training
Although the Lab is the epitome of family dogs, he needs a fairly active household to satisfy his need for exercise and work. Daily walks, romps in a fenced yard, and games of fetch keep his mind and body in shape. Unless these needs are satisfied, the Lab may become a wanderer, a digger, or a chewer. First off, the new Lab puppy should be leash trained and taught to sit on command to prevent his jumping on people in his desire to say hello. The pup can also be taught early to shake paws and to fetch; his soft mouth and innate desire to retrieve can provide hours of play. Later on, the pup can learn to put his nose to use and find things that have been hidden for him.
A fast-growing Lab pup reaches almost adult weight within six or seven months and can be a handful to train if left to his own devices 'til then. He is exuberant, a trait that can get him into trouble with other dogs and with the neighbors who do not appreciate his antics. Therefore early training is essential; if you wait too long, his rambunctious character and strong body will be difficult to manage, especially for those who have not previously had the pleasure of owning such a dog. To avoid training problems and grease the skids of your relationship, take your Lab pup to puppy and basic obedience classes to teach manners, and keep up this good citizen training for the life of the dog. (AKC offers a Canine Good Citizen certificate for those dogs that can pass a 10-step test.
All members of the family should participate in the training at home. If Mary or Dad allows the dog on the sofa when Mom's not around, the dog is going to be either confused or sneaky, so consistency between family members is necessary.
Discipline should be gentle - no screaming at the pup or smacking with a newspaper, as these reactions to misbehavior are counterproductive. Labs are generally eager to learn, so firm but gentle guidance and discipline pay off in a strong bond with family members.
Feeding a Lab pup is more difficult than buying a premium food and letting him eat his fill. As a fast-growing breed subject to hip dysplasia, the Lab puppy should be fed a diet prepared for large-breed puppies or regular adult dog food of less than 25 percent protein to help avoid joint problems that can occur when puppies grow too fast. Offer him food two or three times a day and take away what he doesn't eat in 10 minutes. Teach him to sit before putting the food bowl on the floor to avoid his jumping at the dish and spilling the food.
Some Labs are taller or heavier than the preferred standard size. Most Labs have a tendency to become obese, so their diets must be closely controlled. Owners who use treats to train must be careful to cut back on regular meals to avoid unhealthy weight gain. Older Labs enjoy the couch and the fire; if fed too much or not given enough exercise they will fatten up rather quickly.
Health
Labs are prone to hip dysplasia, a malformation of the hip joint that ranges from mild to severe and can cause such disability or pain that major surgery is necessary.
Dysplastic dogs usually become arthritic. With so many Lab puppies produced each year, it is important to buy from a breeder who x-rays breeding stock for hip dysplasia and only uses those animals with an OFA or PennHIP clearance for breeding. Screening tests on breeding dogs cannot prevent the development of disease in offspring, but it lessens the odds that hip dysplasia will be a problem.
Labs are also prone to several eye disorders, including progressive retinal atrophy and cataracts, and epilepsy. All Lab breeding stock should have an eye test each year and be registered free of eye disease by the Canine Eye Registry Foundation.
Purchasing a healthy Lab pup can be a bit difficult, but the research to find just the right breeder and puppy is well worth the trouble. The well-bred Labrador Retriever is one of a handful of wonderful family dogs for a broad spectrum of lifestyles and living situations. A Lab can do field work (for real or in trials and tests), obedience and agility competition, or therapy dog work at local hospitals or nursing homes with owners who are looking for just a bit more than a companion dog. All in all, the well-bred Lab can be the perfect family dog.
Saturday, August 4, 2007
guidelines in buying koi fish
If you are thinking of purchasing Koi fish, there are several guidelines that you must first consider before buying. It is important that you must first be acquainted with what there is to know regarding Koi fish. It is also important that you must not hastily buy the first Koi fish that you like, because you might be disappointed buying them. Remember, Koi fish are ornamental pet fish that is usually enjoyed for a long time (for those who do not know, Koi fish can live as long as six decades or sixty years and can also grow as long as three feet).Koi fish is a Japanese-bred fish that is related to the carp family and is primarily designed as an ornament. Koi fish are major attractions to homeowners and pet lovers because of the immense beauty and coloring.
Guidelines in Buying Koi fish
Nowadays, there are many people that are captivated by the dazzling and magnificent beauty of Koi fish. Most of them are enticed to collect numerous and sometimes expensive Koi fish. The most dazzling and magnificent Koi fish can cost as much as half a million dollars. Koi fish can be purchased on your local pet shop or through a public or private source, or through amateur or expert Koi fish breeders or collectors. A pond set up for a collection of Koi fish cannot be completed at once with just a wink of an eye. Accumulating and gathering Koi fishes for breeding usually takes time. Accumulating sufficient amount of Koi fish collections is surely an investment that accounts to sufficient money, heartache, and time devotions.
Things that you must expect when buying Koi fish
Most people have lots of expectations when buying Koi fish. Mostly these expectations are the main reason why they want to buy these beautiful ornamental pet fishes. For the most part, it is important that you will be the one to choose your own personal taste when it comes to the type or variety of the Koi fish that you want to obtain. If you are planning to purchase Koi fish, it is important that you first consider several factors such as the variety of the Koi fish, quality, the price range and where you will be buying the Koi fish. Most of all always make sure that your budget for the Koi fish is sufficient enough. Bear in mind that it is essential that you must have sufficient or adequate funds to sustain the maintenance of the Koi fish (such as foods, maintenance and in some cases, medications).
Keep in mind that having Koi fish is not as easy as other types of pets. These dazzling ornamental pet fish require extra effort in keeping them (such as garden pond or aquarium maintenance, foods, electricity for the filter, etc.). They typically need added attention especially during spring season. That is when the water temperature of the garden pond or aquarium becomes erratic, of which can cause consequences.
Guidelines in Buying Koi fish
Nowadays, there are many people that are captivated by the dazzling and magnificent beauty of Koi fish. Most of them are enticed to collect numerous and sometimes expensive Koi fish. The most dazzling and magnificent Koi fish can cost as much as half a million dollars. Koi fish can be purchased on your local pet shop or through a public or private source, or through amateur or expert Koi fish breeders or collectors. A pond set up for a collection of Koi fish cannot be completed at once with just a wink of an eye. Accumulating and gathering Koi fishes for breeding usually takes time. Accumulating sufficient amount of Koi fish collections is surely an investment that accounts to sufficient money, heartache, and time devotions.
Things that you must expect when buying Koi fish
Most people have lots of expectations when buying Koi fish. Mostly these expectations are the main reason why they want to buy these beautiful ornamental pet fishes. For the most part, it is important that you will be the one to choose your own personal taste when it comes to the type or variety of the Koi fish that you want to obtain. If you are planning to purchase Koi fish, it is important that you first consider several factors such as the variety of the Koi fish, quality, the price range and where you will be buying the Koi fish. Most of all always make sure that your budget for the Koi fish is sufficient enough. Bear in mind that it is essential that you must have sufficient or adequate funds to sustain the maintenance of the Koi fish (such as foods, maintenance and in some cases, medications).
Keep in mind that having Koi fish is not as easy as other types of pets. These dazzling ornamental pet fish require extra effort in keeping them (such as garden pond or aquarium maintenance, foods, electricity for the filter, etc.). They typically need added attention especially during spring season. That is when the water temperature of the garden pond or aquarium becomes erratic, of which can cause consequences.
what do you give a dog and wine lover? a wine crate dog feeder
“Treat your dog like a person, and he will treat you like a dog…” Not my pooch!
They are family members — we pamper our pets like our kids, we throw them birthday parties and arrange play-dates, and hire dog walkers for them. We dress them up for Halloween (my 85-pound black lab Bird in a bumble bee costume?) and take them along on trips.
Every dog owner I know has that “special” relationship with his pet — I’m sorry to say that I prefer my dog Bird over most people I know — and yes, I will provide him with the very best.
The pet industry has taken notice: according to the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association (APPMA), we spent over $36 billion on our pets in 2006 — a confirmation of how much they are a part of American family life. High-end hotels (fretté linen for your four-legged friend?), cafés, restaurants and deluxe boutiques have quickly opened their doors to our canine population. From doggy spas and dog fashion shows to luxurious pet products, we seem to spoil our furry friends rotten (or is it ourselves?).
If you are a dog lover and a wine connoisseur (and I am!), these unique dog dishes will satisfy your desire to feed Fido with panache and also feed the interior decorator inside of you. Treat your classy pooch to a fine dining experience and furnish your home with a beautiful piece of doggie furniture.
Being elevated, these dog diners also promote healthy eating and drinking habits for your pet. Two doggie bowls recessed side-by-side in a stand is not a novelty, but in an authentic wooden wine crate — oh là là !
The feeders are hand-crafted by Whiner and Diner™ out of recycled (did I hear “eco-chic”?) wooden wine crates from European and Californian wineries. They come in different sizes to accommodate the tall and the short ones, and are outfitted with 1- or 2-quart stainless steel dog bowls (embossed with paw prints — or plain edges, for minimalists). Depending on the size chosen, the dog dishes can consist of either a single-bowl or a double-bowl configuration.
You can choose from a few basic colors or have the dish custom color-washed to complement your unique décor (match it to your kitchen cabinets, your floor or wherever your imagination takes you). And, of course, you wouldn’t dream of owning an upscale pet feeder unless it was hand-personalized with Fido’s name…well, they can do that too!
Now, if only they could get your favorite “Château Margaux” wine crate…they will, depending on their inventory! Voilà ! However, they do not include the wine…too bad!
“Bone Appétit! A votre santé!”
They are family members — we pamper our pets like our kids, we throw them birthday parties and arrange play-dates, and hire dog walkers for them. We dress them up for Halloween (my 85-pound black lab Bird in a bumble bee costume?) and take them along on trips.
Every dog owner I know has that “special” relationship with his pet — I’m sorry to say that I prefer my dog Bird over most people I know — and yes, I will provide him with the very best.
The pet industry has taken notice: according to the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association (APPMA), we spent over $36 billion on our pets in 2006 — a confirmation of how much they are a part of American family life. High-end hotels (fretté linen for your four-legged friend?), cafés, restaurants and deluxe boutiques have quickly opened their doors to our canine population. From doggy spas and dog fashion shows to luxurious pet products, we seem to spoil our furry friends rotten (or is it ourselves?).
If you are a dog lover and a wine connoisseur (and I am!), these unique dog dishes will satisfy your desire to feed Fido with panache and also feed the interior decorator inside of you. Treat your classy pooch to a fine dining experience and furnish your home with a beautiful piece of doggie furniture.
Being elevated, these dog diners also promote healthy eating and drinking habits for your pet. Two doggie bowls recessed side-by-side in a stand is not a novelty, but in an authentic wooden wine crate — oh là là !
The feeders are hand-crafted by Whiner and Diner™ out of recycled (did I hear “eco-chic”?) wooden wine crates from European and Californian wineries. They come in different sizes to accommodate the tall and the short ones, and are outfitted with 1- or 2-quart stainless steel dog bowls (embossed with paw prints — or plain edges, for minimalists). Depending on the size chosen, the dog dishes can consist of either a single-bowl or a double-bowl configuration.
You can choose from a few basic colors or have the dish custom color-washed to complement your unique décor (match it to your kitchen cabinets, your floor or wherever your imagination takes you). And, of course, you wouldn’t dream of owning an upscale pet feeder unless it was hand-personalized with Fido’s name…well, they can do that too!
Now, if only they could get your favorite “Château Margaux” wine crate…they will, depending on their inventory! Voilà ! However, they do not include the wine…too bad!
“Bone Appétit! A votre santé!”
five secrets for the very best cat food
There is a significant difference between dog and cat food even though their may appear to look the same. Cats need a much higher amount of protein and fat than dogs do. Also, cats have different needs than dogs, so don't feed your cat dog food, or your dog cat food. Remember, Cats are primarily carnivores and need plenty of meat in their diet. Here is what to look for when you are deciding what to feed your furry friends.
Avoid Cat Food Fillers
Cats need to eat food that is rich in protein, so make sure the amount of fillers is kept to a minimum. Carbohydrate rich food is not good for your cat, so don't buy cat food that is full of them. Instead, read the labels and buy a cat food that is not filled with fillers and other by products. Even when a cat food is high in protein, it doesn't mean that the protein comes from a meat source. Avoid those blends which contain a lot of wheat or rice, and look for a meat source as the first ingredient.
Cats Need Protein
Your cat food should always be rich in protein. The protein should come from a meat source such as poultry or fish, and should be the first ingredient. Many cat food brands advertise chicken, beef, and tuna flavored cat food because they know that cats need protein and cat owners are looking for quality cat food. However, you need to make sure the cat food you buy has a sufficient amount of protein regardless of what flavor it is. Also, some will list chicken as the first ingredient, however, when it is listed as "chicken" this means raw meat. Approximately 70% of it is water, so when it is cooked with the other ingredients, chicken will probably really be the 5th to 7th ingredient.
Look for Taurine content
Check the cat food you buy for an amino acid called taurine. This amino acid is very important in your cat's overall health, and your cat will eat as much food as it has to in order to supplement this particular amino acid. So, if you are buying cheap cat food that does not have the proper nutrients your cat will eat a lot in order to get the nutrients it needs. If you buy a nutrient rich cat food then your cat will eat less and save you more money while still getting proper nutrition, and probably not gaining a lot of weight either. Look for taurine on the ingredient label.
Canned or Dry Cat Food?
Cats should be fed a mixture of both dry and canned food. The dry cat food should be given for free feeding. Canned cat food should be use as a supplement at meal time because it has extra water in the food. Look for canned cat food that has a high amount of protein from a meat source. You can mix and match with dry and canned cat food as long as they have a high nutrient density. Cats should always have access to water, and you should consider having an extra bowl of water always available.
FUS/ Crystals
Cats are subject to FUS, crystals that can cause urinary tract disease and pain. Feline formulas should be carefully designed to reduce or eliminate this problem through low magnesium and low ash, correct pH levels and high digestibility. Look at the percentage of magnesium and ash on the label of what you are feeding your cat. You can also play a major role in controlling this problem by always having fresh water available. Cats drink and store water differently from dogs. They store body water in highly concentrated urine. High concentrations can lead to crystal formation. In our work with cat owners, we find there are several ways to enhance water intake to reduce problems:
- Always keep fresh water readily available, 24 hours a day.
- Place food and water dishes several feet apart and feed and water in a quiet area.
- Place a second water dish close to your cat's favorite spot.
- Feed canned cat food (to provide additional moisture content) for one of the meals.
- Leave dry kibble available at all times.
Cats will nibble/feed between 10-20 times throughout the day and night. Eating over an extended time also allows for continuous water intake to balance the food intake.
Summary
Here's what to look for:
- High protein and high fat content.
- Meat as the first ingredient.
- Avoid those blends which contain a lot of wheat or rice fillers.
- High Taurine content.
- Low Magnesium and low ash content.
the worlds smallest dog-the chihuahua
The Chihuahua is the world's smallest dog and it has been an extremely popular dog breed in the United States and around the world. This long-lived breed has a life expectancy well into the mid-teens. Chihuahuas or Chis have grown in popularity over the past several decades from an American Kennel Club (AKC) registration ranking of 16th in the early 90's to 10th in 2004 and 11th in 2005. The Taco Bell Chihuahua promotion introduced in 1997 fueled some of the popularity growth. The tiny Chihuahua can weigh from 2 to 6 pounds and can have a smooth coat or a long coat with feathered ears, neck, feet, legs and tail. Chis are adorable dogs with big eyes and ears but aren't a dog for everyone. If you have young children or other pets then the Chihuahua isn't a good fit for your situation. Chis are much too small to be safe around young children or toddlers and while they enjoy being around other Chihuahuas, they dislike all other breeds. Chihuahuas are the ultimate apartment dog and do really well with a single individual or elderly couple that likes to pamper these small toy dogs. Chis are completely devoted to their owners and love to be with them all the time. The tiny Chihuahua is graceful, lively, curious, intelligent, loyal and affectionate but has some terrier-like qualities. Chis are fearless, saucy, mischievous and bold and make good watchdogs. Additional information can be found in the Chihuahua dog breed article.
The Chihuahua is considered to be one of the few dog breeds indigenous or native to North America. Much of the Chis history is somewhat speculative but most experts think the breed descended from the Techichi. The Techichi was a small canine that existed in Mayan times around the 5th century AD. They think the Olmecs of Central America developed the Techichi breed. The Toltecs who succeeded the Olmecs in the 9th century AD carved small dogs with erect ears resembling plump Chihuahuas. These Techichis may have been raised as pets but they were definitely used as a food source for the nobility on special occasions. After the Aztecs conquered the Toltecs, they used the Techichi in religious ceremonies as food sources and sacrifices. The Aztecs also regularly burned these dogs along with the deceased in the belief that the sins of the humans would be transferred to the dogs and the dog would help guide the soul between this world and the next. Techichi remains have been found buried with human remains all across Mexico. When the Spanish conquered and destroyed the Aztec civilization from 1519 to 1521, they may have introduced a small terrier breed that was crossed with the Techichi. Some breed historians think that the Chihuahua is actually of European descent and originated in Malta. They offer as proof a 1482 painting by Botticelli which depicts a Chihuahua-like dog. They theorize that the Spanish conquerors brought these small dogs with them to the Americas. A third theory is that the Chinese, who were adept at developing miniature dogs, developed a Chihuahua-like breed which Spanish traders introduced into Mexico.
Whatever theory is correct, the resulting breeds were left to survive in the mountains of Mexico - maybe with help from the local population. Nothing much was heard from these small dogs for about 300 years until 1850 when several small dogs - some long haired, some short haired and some larger hairless were discovered in the Mexican border state of Chihuahua. The smooth coat and long coat varieties were eventually called Chihuahuas after the state in which they were found and the larger hairless variety was called the Mexican Hairless. The Chihuahua breed was first registered by the AKC in 1904 and it was relatively rare. The national Chihuahua breed club was formed in 1923 and the breed received wide exposure when Xavier Cugat, the rumba king, appeared with his Chihuahuas in performances and movies during the 1930's and 40's. The Chis' popularity peaked in 1964 when it was the 3rd most popular dog breed in the US. The breed's popularity resulted in unscrupulous breeders and dealers introducing a number of health and temperament problems into the bloodlines. Genetic problems ranged from patellar luxation (slipped kneecap), heart disease (pulmonic stenosis), hypoglycemia, and tracheal collapse to poor temperament. Recent breeding practices are resulting in much healthier and more amiable amigos. However any prospective buyer should check to make sure that the puppy's breeding parents have been certified free of orthopedic and other genetic diseases.
The Chihuahua is considered to be one of the few dog breeds indigenous or native to North America. Much of the Chis history is somewhat speculative but most experts think the breed descended from the Techichi. The Techichi was a small canine that existed in Mayan times around the 5th century AD. They think the Olmecs of Central America developed the Techichi breed. The Toltecs who succeeded the Olmecs in the 9th century AD carved small dogs with erect ears resembling plump Chihuahuas. These Techichis may have been raised as pets but they were definitely used as a food source for the nobility on special occasions. After the Aztecs conquered the Toltecs, they used the Techichi in religious ceremonies as food sources and sacrifices. The Aztecs also regularly burned these dogs along with the deceased in the belief that the sins of the humans would be transferred to the dogs and the dog would help guide the soul between this world and the next. Techichi remains have been found buried with human remains all across Mexico. When the Spanish conquered and destroyed the Aztec civilization from 1519 to 1521, they may have introduced a small terrier breed that was crossed with the Techichi. Some breed historians think that the Chihuahua is actually of European descent and originated in Malta. They offer as proof a 1482 painting by Botticelli which depicts a Chihuahua-like dog. They theorize that the Spanish conquerors brought these small dogs with them to the Americas. A third theory is that the Chinese, who were adept at developing miniature dogs, developed a Chihuahua-like breed which Spanish traders introduced into Mexico.
Whatever theory is correct, the resulting breeds were left to survive in the mountains of Mexico - maybe with help from the local population. Nothing much was heard from these small dogs for about 300 years until 1850 when several small dogs - some long haired, some short haired and some larger hairless were discovered in the Mexican border state of Chihuahua. The smooth coat and long coat varieties were eventually called Chihuahuas after the state in which they were found and the larger hairless variety was called the Mexican Hairless. The Chihuahua breed was first registered by the AKC in 1904 and it was relatively rare. The national Chihuahua breed club was formed in 1923 and the breed received wide exposure when Xavier Cugat, the rumba king, appeared with his Chihuahuas in performances and movies during the 1930's and 40's. The Chis' popularity peaked in 1964 when it was the 3rd most popular dog breed in the US. The breed's popularity resulted in unscrupulous breeders and dealers introducing a number of health and temperament problems into the bloodlines. Genetic problems ranged from patellar luxation (slipped kneecap), heart disease (pulmonic stenosis), hypoglycemia, and tracheal collapse to poor temperament. Recent breeding practices are resulting in much healthier and more amiable amigos. However any prospective buyer should check to make sure that the puppy's breeding parents have been certified free of orthopedic and other genetic diseases.
unusual birds and mammals
We all know what wolves and coyotes look like, and nearly everyone is familiar with bears, deer and turtles; what about some less familiar animals such as capybara, kiwi, or tapirs? There are so many lesser known animals on this planet that we hear little or nothing about most times, it is interesting to investigate a few of these creatures and understand them a little more.
Mammals
Capybara are first on our list of unusual mammals. They are the world’s largest rodent, averaging 100 pounds. They are called rodents because they have sharp front teeth that never stop growing. They are semi-aquatic, spending a lot of time in the water. They live in grasslands and forests alongside water in Central and South America. They are most active during the early morning and late evening and rest during the heat of the day.
Our next animal is a cute little miniature "bear" called the kinkajou. These are a unique animal in that they are the only mammals that help to pollinate plants. They have very long tongues that they use to lick the nectar inside flowers. While they are licking, they get pollen on their fur and noses and this gets transplanted to other flowers as they feed. They are sometimes called honey bears because they love honey so much, but they are different from regular bears in that they are very small, most times not weighing more than 8 pounds. They are fun loving animals that even make good pets. They feed on fruit, honey and eggs in the wild and their closest cousin is the panda bear of Asia.
Another unusual mammal is a tapir. It looks like half anteater, half pig, yet they are not related to either. They descend from primitive horses and rhinos. They come in various color patterns depending on the region they are from. All baby tapirs, however, are born with a pattern of dots and stripes which make them look like a watermelon with legs. As they age, these markings fade away to be replaced with their adult color patterns. They feed on fruit, berries and leaves, and can live to be 30 years old.
Our last animal is a Marsupial Mouse. While this may seem like just any other mouse, there are some very distinct characteristics about the marsupial mouse that make it stand out. Being a marsupial, its young are "hatched" from inside their mothers and then they crawl through her fir up to their mother's underside where they attach and feed until they are fully developed. When they come out of their mother, they are so underdeveloped that in order to survive, they have to breathe through their skin. They are the only mammal found that can do this. As their lungs continue to develop, they gradually start to take over the breathing process until eventually, when fully developed, their skin no longer plays a role in breathing. They are carnivorous by nature, eating insects, small birds, reptiles and small mammals.
Birds
Of the various birds in the world, the kiwi bird is one of the most unique. It is similar to the chicken in that it can't fly. Their "wings" are only two inches long and for all practical purposes are useless. They are the sole survivor of an ancient order of birds including the now extinct moas. They are semi-nocturnal animals, so catching a glimpse of them in the wild rarely happens. They can only be found in New Zealand and its surrounding islands. The reason they have survived the ages in New Zealand comes from the fact that there are no snakes or large mammals native to New Zealand. A bird the size of a kiwi, without the capability to fly would be an especially attractive target to snakes. Also...the island has no bears, bobcats, tigers, etc., with also makes it easier for the kiwi to survive. With the coming of humans to the island, especially the colonization by England, house pets such as cats and dogs have become the main predators of the decreasing kiwi population. Some of the biggest birds in the world are condors. They can have wingspans up to 11 feet; they use their large wingspan to "float" on air thermals for miles without having to move their wings, which conserves their energy as they look for food. They are in the vulture family, feeding on the remains of animals and thus they play a very significant role in the animal kingdom. They have highly evolved immune systems to ward off infection from the various bacteria left on the animal carcasses they feed on. They are very clean birds, spending much of their time cleaning their feathers and heads after eating to further keep them safe from disease and bacteria. Their heads are featherless allowing them to stay clean during eating.
The last unusual bird is the worlds smallest, weighing in at only 1.8 grams, which is less than a US penny. The bee hummingbird's nest is only 3 cm wide. Its tiny wings beat 80 times per second. Using all this energy requires them to eat half their body weight in food each day as well as drink eight times their body weight in water. That's like a 150 pound adult human drinking 144 gallons of water each day. They are found only in Cuba and the Isle of Pines.
Mammals
Capybara are first on our list of unusual mammals. They are the world’s largest rodent, averaging 100 pounds. They are called rodents because they have sharp front teeth that never stop growing. They are semi-aquatic, spending a lot of time in the water. They live in grasslands and forests alongside water in Central and South America. They are most active during the early morning and late evening and rest during the heat of the day.
Our next animal is a cute little miniature "bear" called the kinkajou. These are a unique animal in that they are the only mammals that help to pollinate plants. They have very long tongues that they use to lick the nectar inside flowers. While they are licking, they get pollen on their fur and noses and this gets transplanted to other flowers as they feed. They are sometimes called honey bears because they love honey so much, but they are different from regular bears in that they are very small, most times not weighing more than 8 pounds. They are fun loving animals that even make good pets. They feed on fruit, honey and eggs in the wild and their closest cousin is the panda bear of Asia.
Another unusual mammal is a tapir. It looks like half anteater, half pig, yet they are not related to either. They descend from primitive horses and rhinos. They come in various color patterns depending on the region they are from. All baby tapirs, however, are born with a pattern of dots and stripes which make them look like a watermelon with legs. As they age, these markings fade away to be replaced with their adult color patterns. They feed on fruit, berries and leaves, and can live to be 30 years old.
Our last animal is a Marsupial Mouse. While this may seem like just any other mouse, there are some very distinct characteristics about the marsupial mouse that make it stand out. Being a marsupial, its young are "hatched" from inside their mothers and then they crawl through her fir up to their mother's underside where they attach and feed until they are fully developed. When they come out of their mother, they are so underdeveloped that in order to survive, they have to breathe through their skin. They are the only mammal found that can do this. As their lungs continue to develop, they gradually start to take over the breathing process until eventually, when fully developed, their skin no longer plays a role in breathing. They are carnivorous by nature, eating insects, small birds, reptiles and small mammals.
Birds
Of the various birds in the world, the kiwi bird is one of the most unique. It is similar to the chicken in that it can't fly. Their "wings" are only two inches long and for all practical purposes are useless. They are the sole survivor of an ancient order of birds including the now extinct moas. They are semi-nocturnal animals, so catching a glimpse of them in the wild rarely happens. They can only be found in New Zealand and its surrounding islands. The reason they have survived the ages in New Zealand comes from the fact that there are no snakes or large mammals native to New Zealand. A bird the size of a kiwi, without the capability to fly would be an especially attractive target to snakes. Also...the island has no bears, bobcats, tigers, etc., with also makes it easier for the kiwi to survive. With the coming of humans to the island, especially the colonization by England, house pets such as cats and dogs have become the main predators of the decreasing kiwi population. Some of the biggest birds in the world are condors. They can have wingspans up to 11 feet; they use their large wingspan to "float" on air thermals for miles without having to move their wings, which conserves their energy as they look for food. They are in the vulture family, feeding on the remains of animals and thus they play a very significant role in the animal kingdom. They have highly evolved immune systems to ward off infection from the various bacteria left on the animal carcasses they feed on. They are very clean birds, spending much of their time cleaning their feathers and heads after eating to further keep them safe from disease and bacteria. Their heads are featherless allowing them to stay clean during eating.
The last unusual bird is the worlds smallest, weighing in at only 1.8 grams, which is less than a US penny. The bee hummingbird's nest is only 3 cm wide. Its tiny wings beat 80 times per second. Using all this energy requires them to eat half their body weight in food each day as well as drink eight times their body weight in water. That's like a 150 pound adult human drinking 144 gallons of water each day. They are found only in Cuba and the Isle of Pines.
why do cats eat grass?
Some cat owners make the mistake of preventing their cat from eating grass. There are various reasons for this, one being that they think it makes their cat ill or upsets their stomach. This is an incorrect assumption and in fact the eating of grass followed by regurgitation is a perfectly natural behavior for all cats.
Cats do not possess the ability to separate meat from fur bones or feathers before eating like we do so they have to eat the digestible parts along with the indigestible parts. When the cat has finished digesting what he can the rest has to be removed from the system. To try and pass this through the digestive tract could cause obstruction and severe illness so this is where grass eating comes in.
The habit of eating grass triggers the natural process of regurgitation of indigestible foods including its own fur balls which would otherwise obstruct the system. This can appear to us humans as if the cat is being violently ill but this is not the case and in fact is very beneficial to the cat.
What about other plants and vegetables?
Cats cannot produce the enzymes needed to break down plant matter. Even when pureed or powdered, vegetables simply pass through the digestive tract without leaving any of their nutritional content. This alone is not harmful to your cat, but when undigested plant matter mixes with highly digestible food such as meat, indigestion and other complications may occur. Grass is an exception however; some cats compulsively eat grass when you leave them outdoors. This will cause them to regurgitate the indigestible matter, including raw vegetables.
If your cat is unable to get access to grass he may attempt to eat your house plants instead. This could be dangerous because some house plants and flowers are toxic to cats, so if you have a house cat like a Ragdoll cat for example you should provide a regular supply of potted grass to prevent him looking elsewhere. And most importantly do not punish your cat for regurgitating on to you carpet because he will not know why you are punishing him. Regurgitation is an involuntary action of your cat’s stomach so he could not stop it happening even if he tried. Cleaning up after the occasional regurgitation should be an accepted part of being a loving cat owner as they are only doing what comes naturally.
Cats do not possess the ability to separate meat from fur bones or feathers before eating like we do so they have to eat the digestible parts along with the indigestible parts. When the cat has finished digesting what he can the rest has to be removed from the system. To try and pass this through the digestive tract could cause obstruction and severe illness so this is where grass eating comes in.
The habit of eating grass triggers the natural process of regurgitation of indigestible foods including its own fur balls which would otherwise obstruct the system. This can appear to us humans as if the cat is being violently ill but this is not the case and in fact is very beneficial to the cat.
What about other plants and vegetables?
Cats cannot produce the enzymes needed to break down plant matter. Even when pureed or powdered, vegetables simply pass through the digestive tract without leaving any of their nutritional content. This alone is not harmful to your cat, but when undigested plant matter mixes with highly digestible food such as meat, indigestion and other complications may occur. Grass is an exception however; some cats compulsively eat grass when you leave them outdoors. This will cause them to regurgitate the indigestible matter, including raw vegetables.
If your cat is unable to get access to grass he may attempt to eat your house plants instead. This could be dangerous because some house plants and flowers are toxic to cats, so if you have a house cat like a Ragdoll cat for example you should provide a regular supply of potted grass to prevent him looking elsewhere. And most importantly do not punish your cat for regurgitating on to you carpet because he will not know why you are punishing him. Regurgitation is an involuntary action of your cat’s stomach so he could not stop it happening even if he tried. Cleaning up after the occasional regurgitation should be an accepted part of being a loving cat owner as they are only doing what comes naturally.
travelling with your pets; some useful tips
Remember to bring along your pet's rabies and health certificates if you are taking your pet on vacation with you. It is also a good idea to have the name of someone who would be willing to come and get the animal in case of an accident. If you are staying at hotels, you would do well to research which ones accept pets (many do) and which ones do not.
Some airlines will let your pet ride in the cabin with you for a $50 one-way fee, but it must be small enough to fit in a crate that will then fit under the seat in front of you, and your pet will count as one piece of your carry-on luggage.
And just like children, pets DO get carsick! If you are planning a long trip with your pet and he isn't used to traveling in the car much, you might want to take him out for a bunch of rides - gradually lengthening the trip each time. Also putting the animal toward the front of the vehicle will sometimes help with a dog that does get carsick (less motion than at the back).
How many times have you driven down the street to see a car go by you that has a dog hanging out the window? Or sitting in the driver's lap? Not only is this a probable accident waiting to happen, but the dog's head and eyes are in danger of being injured by debris. It is always a good idea to restrain your dog when he is traveling in the car with you - either with a harness or in a crate. If you use a harness, you might consider covering the seat with a seat cover or an old blanket that you can take out and wash.
And last but not least, under no circumstances EVER leave your pet in the hot sun in the car (even with the windows down). It is akin to putting them into a 120° oven!! Have fun with your pet and enjoy your summer.
Some airlines will let your pet ride in the cabin with you for a $50 one-way fee, but it must be small enough to fit in a crate that will then fit under the seat in front of you, and your pet will count as one piece of your carry-on luggage.
And just like children, pets DO get carsick! If you are planning a long trip with your pet and he isn't used to traveling in the car much, you might want to take him out for a bunch of rides - gradually lengthening the trip each time. Also putting the animal toward the front of the vehicle will sometimes help with a dog that does get carsick (less motion than at the back).
How many times have you driven down the street to see a car go by you that has a dog hanging out the window? Or sitting in the driver's lap? Not only is this a probable accident waiting to happen, but the dog's head and eyes are in danger of being injured by debris. It is always a good idea to restrain your dog when he is traveling in the car with you - either with a harness or in a crate. If you use a harness, you might consider covering the seat with a seat cover or an old blanket that you can take out and wash.
And last but not least, under no circumstances EVER leave your pet in the hot sun in the car (even with the windows down). It is akin to putting them into a 120° oven!! Have fun with your pet and enjoy your summer.
how to check and clean your cat ears
An important part of keeping your cat healthly and happy is checking and cleaning their ears. Because the ears are one of the few parts that cats can not reach themselves they need a little help from a loving owner. Keeping your cats ears clean is extremely important because any unremoved dirt, debris, or wax can clog the ears and cause infections. Regular ear cleaning at home augment’s your cats own natural grooming habits.
1. How to check the ears
During petting, casually check your cats ears for discharge, redness, unpleasant smell, swelling, and even lumps. Also observe your cat’s behaviour, if he often scratches or paws at his ears (and sometimes even shakes his head often), then he might be feeling discomfort in the ear area.
If you notice that your cats ears are becoming painful or inflamed, visit a veterinarian as soon as possible. The veterinarian has the equipment to look deep into your cat’s ear canal and give an accurate diagnosis. The veterinarian will determine if allergies, skin conditions, ear mites, bacteria, yeasts, and fungi are causing ear diseases. Seek early treatment, or your cat’s ear condition may become too late to heal.
2. How to clean the ears
Ask your veterinarian for gentle ear cleaning solutions you can use to keep your cats ears clean. These special solutions are effective in removing excess wax, moisture, and debris from your cat’s outer ear canal. Be sure to use only solutions that are specifically formulated for cats. Avoid medicated solutions, unless your veterinarian advises you to use it.
Different solutions are administered differently, but most of them require you to follow these steps.
* You typically only need a few drops of the ear solution. Squeeze the bottle and let a few drops fall on into your cat’s ear canal.
* Start massaging the base of your cats ear gently. You should hear a ‘squelch’ while you do this. Repeat the same procedure with the other ear. After both ears have been cleaned, let your cat shake its head, this loosens the waxes.
NOTE: Stop massaging immediately if your cat feels pain, and then take your cat to the veterinarian if you haven't already done so.
* Wipe the solution by wrapping your forefinger with cotton wool, this should clean off wax and debris. Do this gently though and do not poke in too deep, or you might hurt your cats eardrum.
It is recommended not to use cotton buds, which can injure the ear canals’ sensitive lining.
1. How to check the ears
During petting, casually check your cats ears for discharge, redness, unpleasant smell, swelling, and even lumps. Also observe your cat’s behaviour, if he often scratches or paws at his ears (and sometimes even shakes his head often), then he might be feeling discomfort in the ear area.
If you notice that your cats ears are becoming painful or inflamed, visit a veterinarian as soon as possible. The veterinarian has the equipment to look deep into your cat’s ear canal and give an accurate diagnosis. The veterinarian will determine if allergies, skin conditions, ear mites, bacteria, yeasts, and fungi are causing ear diseases. Seek early treatment, or your cat’s ear condition may become too late to heal.
2. How to clean the ears
Ask your veterinarian for gentle ear cleaning solutions you can use to keep your cats ears clean. These special solutions are effective in removing excess wax, moisture, and debris from your cat’s outer ear canal. Be sure to use only solutions that are specifically formulated for cats. Avoid medicated solutions, unless your veterinarian advises you to use it.
Different solutions are administered differently, but most of them require you to follow these steps.
* You typically only need a few drops of the ear solution. Squeeze the bottle and let a few drops fall on into your cat’s ear canal.
* Start massaging the base of your cats ear gently. You should hear a ‘squelch’ while you do this. Repeat the same procedure with the other ear. After both ears have been cleaned, let your cat shake its head, this loosens the waxes.
NOTE: Stop massaging immediately if your cat feels pain, and then take your cat to the veterinarian if you haven't already done so.
* Wipe the solution by wrapping your forefinger with cotton wool, this should clean off wax and debris. Do this gently though and do not poke in too deep, or you might hurt your cats eardrum.
It is recommended not to use cotton buds, which can injure the ear canals’ sensitive lining.
emperor pinguins
The Emperor Penguin is most noted for its size, reaching up to four feet in height, making it the tallest penguin of its species. Its stomach is white and its wings and back are black, lending its trademark "tuxedo look." Although penguins have wings they do not fly, but swim through the water at an average speed of four to six miles per hour, with possible bursts of up to twelve miles per hour. Although water mixed with cold temperatures causes humans to experience hypothermia and even death, penguins have a preen gland which secretes an oil that they use to coat their feathers with so water will run off of them.
Emperor Penguins live in the coldest region of any other penguin on earth. They not only survive, but reproduce and thrive where other penguins cannot. Adult Emperor Penguins travel about sixty miles into Antarctica for breeding season. Although cold temperatures are a threat to the survival of other penguins and their eggs, the Emperor Penguin has characteristics that allow them to keep warm, notwithstanding below freezing temperatures and high winds.
After searching for a mate, the female lays a single egg in the months of May or June. After laying the egg, the female will carefully pass the egg to the male to incubate until it hatches. This process is carefully executed so the egg does not have any contact with the ice where it would immediately die voiding the couple's attempt at reproduction that year. When the male successfully receives the egg he incubates it above his feet in a flap of skin called a brood pouch. In order to stay warm in the extreme temperatures, Emperor Penguins form large groups and huddle together. They instinctively know when to move from the center of this huddle toward the outer edges to give each penguin the warmth of the middle. This process allows for them to survive the brutal temperatures in the Antarctic.
After the male has the egg, the female is free to travel to get food. She returns after about two months. After her arrival she is able to regurgitate the food for the young chick when it hatches. If the chick is born before the female returns, the male is able to produce a milky substance from his esophagus to keep his young alive. When the female returns to care for her young, the male is then free to go in search of food.
While it may seem unnatural for a species to reproduce in such extreme weather conditions, in actuality winter is the ideal season for reproduction because there is less competition for food. Emperor Penguin chicks are larger than other penguin species and an adequate diet is essential for their survival. Only in the harsh days of winter is there enough food for them. Emperor Penguins diet consists mainly of cephlapods, such as octopus and squid, but they also eat krill and fish. Their threat for survival is not only freezing in the cold temperatures, but also natural predators such as sea lions, Orca Whales and sharks. Although global warming has raised concerns for Emperor Penguins, there is thought to be an estimated 350,000 of them in the world.
Survival in Antarctica seems impossible, yet the Emperor Penguin continues to thrive in these freezing temperatures. Their physical characteristics, instincts and socialization allow for them to continue to reproduce and thrive in a climate that would otherwise be deadly.
Emperor Penguins live in the coldest region of any other penguin on earth. They not only survive, but reproduce and thrive where other penguins cannot. Adult Emperor Penguins travel about sixty miles into Antarctica for breeding season. Although cold temperatures are a threat to the survival of other penguins and their eggs, the Emperor Penguin has characteristics that allow them to keep warm, notwithstanding below freezing temperatures and high winds.
After searching for a mate, the female lays a single egg in the months of May or June. After laying the egg, the female will carefully pass the egg to the male to incubate until it hatches. This process is carefully executed so the egg does not have any contact with the ice where it would immediately die voiding the couple's attempt at reproduction that year. When the male successfully receives the egg he incubates it above his feet in a flap of skin called a brood pouch. In order to stay warm in the extreme temperatures, Emperor Penguins form large groups and huddle together. They instinctively know when to move from the center of this huddle toward the outer edges to give each penguin the warmth of the middle. This process allows for them to survive the brutal temperatures in the Antarctic.
After the male has the egg, the female is free to travel to get food. She returns after about two months. After her arrival she is able to regurgitate the food for the young chick when it hatches. If the chick is born before the female returns, the male is able to produce a milky substance from his esophagus to keep his young alive. When the female returns to care for her young, the male is then free to go in search of food.
While it may seem unnatural for a species to reproduce in such extreme weather conditions, in actuality winter is the ideal season for reproduction because there is less competition for food. Emperor Penguin chicks are larger than other penguin species and an adequate diet is essential for their survival. Only in the harsh days of winter is there enough food for them. Emperor Penguins diet consists mainly of cephlapods, such as octopus and squid, but they also eat krill and fish. Their threat for survival is not only freezing in the cold temperatures, but also natural predators such as sea lions, Orca Whales and sharks. Although global warming has raised concerns for Emperor Penguins, there is thought to be an estimated 350,000 of them in the world.
Survival in Antarctica seems impossible, yet the Emperor Penguin continues to thrive in these freezing temperatures. Their physical characteristics, instincts and socialization allow for them to continue to reproduce and thrive in a climate that would otherwise be deadly.
characterictics of reputable breeders
The first challenge that you will face if you are planning of obtaining a golden retriever pup is its source. As a matter of fact, it is somewhat impossible to determine whether or not the golden retriever pup will grow healthy, no matter what you do. In order to assume that your golden retriever pup will grow up healthy, the breeder that your pup came from must have good reputation.
There are few factors that you must consider in choosing the right breeder of golden retrievers. It is essential that you must thoroughly think each of your choices. Below are some of the few factors that must take into consideration. These will help you choose the right breeder.
Backyard Golden Retriever Breeder
These types of golden retriever breeders are regarded as a poor option in selecting a puppy. Mostly, these types of breeder are people who possess few golden retrievers. These types of breeders realized that it is fun breeding their female golden retriever because of its puppies while some of them breed their canine pet once or twice before opting to spay their canine. They mostly do not care on the quality of litters and care for them. They mostly mind the money that they would get in selling the litters.
Basically, most of these types of breeders have either little or no knowledge on the basics of breeding golden retrievers. Even a few of them have less knowledge on how to properly care their canine pet. Mostly, they have no knowledge regarding the problems in breeding golden retriever and would mostly care even less. All they want is to make their canines produce litters for additional income. They would usually sell the litters as soon as the puppies are bred.
Dealers or Pet Shops
Pet shops or pet dealers are the in fact considered as the worst place to obtain a golden retriever puppy, that is because the puppies that they sell are bred or brought up poorly and are mostly bred on poor environments. Pet shops consider the golden retriever puppies as merchandises that must be profited. Pet shops mostly do not care on the quality of the puppy; they usually care about the quantity.
And because of the way the golden retriever puppies are bred and brought up, they usually make quite bit of income. Mostly, they spend small amount on the breeding and the caring of the litters. Basically, pet shops rely on “impulse buying”. This is done by simply not giving the buyer a sufficient amount of time to assess the golden retrievers that they sell. So if you are looking for a golden retriever pup this is not a good place to get one.
Hobby Breeders
This is probably the best way to obtain a golden retriever pup, mostly because hobby breeders of golden retrievers are trustworthy and committed in caring and quality of the golden retriever litters. And because of that, hobby breeders care more on the quality side and nothing else. Mostly, they will assist you in raising the best golden retriever pup because they dedicate themselves in raising the best one.
So if you want to have the best golden retriever pup, all you need is to visit a hobby breeder, because hobby golden retriever breeders understand their responsibility in each and every one of their puppies. Hobby breeders seldom breed poor quality pups. If you obtained your golden retriever pup from these types of source, then you are guaranteed that you have a healthy pup.
There are few factors that you must consider in choosing the right breeder of golden retrievers. It is essential that you must thoroughly think each of your choices. Below are some of the few factors that must take into consideration. These will help you choose the right breeder.
Backyard Golden Retriever Breeder
These types of golden retriever breeders are regarded as a poor option in selecting a puppy. Mostly, these types of breeder are people who possess few golden retrievers. These types of breeders realized that it is fun breeding their female golden retriever because of its puppies while some of them breed their canine pet once or twice before opting to spay their canine. They mostly do not care on the quality of litters and care for them. They mostly mind the money that they would get in selling the litters.
Basically, most of these types of breeders have either little or no knowledge on the basics of breeding golden retrievers. Even a few of them have less knowledge on how to properly care their canine pet. Mostly, they have no knowledge regarding the problems in breeding golden retriever and would mostly care even less. All they want is to make their canines produce litters for additional income. They would usually sell the litters as soon as the puppies are bred.
Dealers or Pet Shops
Pet shops or pet dealers are the in fact considered as the worst place to obtain a golden retriever puppy, that is because the puppies that they sell are bred or brought up poorly and are mostly bred on poor environments. Pet shops consider the golden retriever puppies as merchandises that must be profited. Pet shops mostly do not care on the quality of the puppy; they usually care about the quantity.
And because of the way the golden retriever puppies are bred and brought up, they usually make quite bit of income. Mostly, they spend small amount on the breeding and the caring of the litters. Basically, pet shops rely on “impulse buying”. This is done by simply not giving the buyer a sufficient amount of time to assess the golden retrievers that they sell. So if you are looking for a golden retriever pup this is not a good place to get one.
Hobby Breeders
This is probably the best way to obtain a golden retriever pup, mostly because hobby breeders of golden retrievers are trustworthy and committed in caring and quality of the golden retriever litters. And because of that, hobby breeders care more on the quality side and nothing else. Mostly, they will assist you in raising the best golden retriever pup because they dedicate themselves in raising the best one.
So if you want to have the best golden retriever pup, all you need is to visit a hobby breeder, because hobby golden retriever breeders understand their responsibility in each and every one of their puppies. Hobby breeders seldom breed poor quality pups. If you obtained your golden retriever pup from these types of source, then you are guaranteed that you have a healthy pup.
hunting dogs
How does one choose good hunting dogs without getting stung? Many dog breeders are like horse traders—you get what you get, and that isn't what was listed. So a dog breeder's reputation, letters of reputation or phone calls, and looking at siblings or mother and father of the dog means a lot when looking for good hunting dogs. Make sure they have some form of guarantee and for how long they guarantee the puppy or dog.
But what is good for one hunter may not mean the same for another, so make sure you know what you want before going out and looking. Do you want versatile good hunting dogs for all-purpose hunting, or one that is excellent at squirrel hunting or coon hunting? Look at where they will be living the remaining time—will it it he be a family member? Make sure the breed you want is one you have information on and have done your homework on. Just because grandpa had one doesn't mean you know what you need to know regarding the purchase of good hunting dogs.
Good hunting dogs need to be disease from and have clean genetic lines, regardless the breed. Make sure routine worming has been done as a puppy—which has usually been done from two weeks. Also, look at their shot records—did they receive a two-week puppy shot series with only two weeks between them, beginning around five or six weeks? Once the puppy is weaned from its mother, its immune system becomes compromised, and it is up to the breeder to maintain that system up to eight weeks of age when it leaves the next. A breeder who sells before then is not worth his/her weight in salt. Good hunting dogs mean that—a good hunting dog, not one that is haphazardly bred to make a quick buck. Georgia is famous for good hunting dogs, as most Georgia hunters think more of their dogs than anywhere else, but make sure you don't get a bad breeder anyway.
But what is good for one hunter may not mean the same for another, so make sure you know what you want before going out and looking. Do you want versatile good hunting dogs for all-purpose hunting, or one that is excellent at squirrel hunting or coon hunting? Look at where they will be living the remaining time—will it it he be a family member? Make sure the breed you want is one you have information on and have done your homework on. Just because grandpa had one doesn't mean you know what you need to know regarding the purchase of good hunting dogs.
Good hunting dogs need to be disease from and have clean genetic lines, regardless the breed. Make sure routine worming has been done as a puppy—which has usually been done from two weeks. Also, look at their shot records—did they receive a two-week puppy shot series with only two weeks between them, beginning around five or six weeks? Once the puppy is weaned from its mother, its immune system becomes compromised, and it is up to the breeder to maintain that system up to eight weeks of age when it leaves the next. A breeder who sells before then is not worth his/her weight in salt. Good hunting dogs mean that—a good hunting dog, not one that is haphazardly bred to make a quick buck. Georgia is famous for good hunting dogs, as most Georgia hunters think more of their dogs than anywhere else, but make sure you don't get a bad breeder anyway.
Sunday, July 29, 2007
Aquarium decorations creating home for fishes
Aquarium decorations are not only beautiful to look at they also have an important purpose. They provide fishes with homes---- hiding places and natural borders resembling their natural habitat. There are many different types of decorations, for instance Cave dwelling fishes love aquarium decorations that structure like caves, holes and crevices. Whereas Fishes that live in dense vegetation prefer plants and other types of tiny hiding places. Decorations are crucial for a happy and healthy aquarium they also keep fishes from getting bored.
Tanks: There are many variants of tanks big, small, quadrilateral or polygonal. The size of an aquarium should be according to the size and the number of fishs you plan to keep.
Also tanks come in a variety of tinted glasses.
Plants: They are the the most beautiful, inexpensive source of decoration for your aquariums. Fishes love the aquatic plants as they are part of their natural habitats. They come in all varieties, costing anywhere from a few bucks to hundreds. Plants are very useful as well; they bind carbon dioxide and oxygenate the water. They also use organic waste products as nutrition and remove potentially harmful compounds from the water. Plants can also be used to keep a check on the water quality of an aquarium; the plant will start dieing before the fish if the water suddenly becomes toxic.
Wood, Rock and Coral: An aquarium can be like a miniature true habitat for the fishes with these decorations. Drift wood and mangroves can create a beautiful effect in the aquarium, plus some fishes particularly thrive on Drift wood. But be careful as Drift wood might lower pH levels and the hardness of the water. So it is best used in aquariums with soft slightly acid water. Stones and rocks make excellent decorations. But again caution is needed; you should never use rocks that affect your water’s pH levels or stones that might contain toxins. There are also fake rocks that resemble real rocks, but these are pretty expensive. Rocks can be used to create caves which many fishes are passionate about. Coral are a beautiful addition to marine aquariums; in fact they may prove necessary for a healthy marine habitat. But can be dangerous to fresh water aquarium and should not be used as they be harmful.
Gravel or sand: Both are great both come in a variety of color. Gravel comes in white, brown and black, or blue, red, green, yellow the whole rainbow spectrum. Sand again also has a plethora of colors white, black, blue, yellow, red, green. Both of these can be layered in multiple colors.
Glass marbles, Ceramics, Plastic: Ok all are unnatural materials and might look slightly tacky, but fishes don’t give a fig for this, they enjoy them enormously. Glass marbles though are not a good bottom substrate out of a biologically as flora does not thrive on them, can add beautiful colors to the aquarium. It’s best to use them sparingly or add another more functional substrate below. Ceramics are excellent aquarium decorations. All sizes and shapes can be used as long as they do not have sharp edges. However ceramics tend to grow algae that might be hard to. Plastic they are cheap, colorful and yes tacky, but can be found in a variety of fun shapes. Treasure chests, skulls, divers, pirates, plants and ships you name it and stores have them.
It is imperative that you only use aquarium decorations that are safe to use in aquariums. If you have salt water aquariums they should be saltwater-safe also. If you don’t take this precaution your fish will die due to the organisms and toxins released by the decorations
Decorations have both practical and aesthetical use if done tastefully and carefully you can create a miniature aquatic ecosystem that both you and your fish can enjoy.
Tanks: There are many variants of tanks big, small, quadrilateral or polygonal. The size of an aquarium should be according to the size and the number of fishs you plan to keep.
Also tanks come in a variety of tinted glasses.
Plants: They are the the most beautiful, inexpensive source of decoration for your aquariums. Fishes love the aquatic plants as they are part of their natural habitats. They come in all varieties, costing anywhere from a few bucks to hundreds. Plants are very useful as well; they bind carbon dioxide and oxygenate the water. They also use organic waste products as nutrition and remove potentially harmful compounds from the water. Plants can also be used to keep a check on the water quality of an aquarium; the plant will start dieing before the fish if the water suddenly becomes toxic.
Wood, Rock and Coral: An aquarium can be like a miniature true habitat for the fishes with these decorations. Drift wood and mangroves can create a beautiful effect in the aquarium, plus some fishes particularly thrive on Drift wood. But be careful as Drift wood might lower pH levels and the hardness of the water. So it is best used in aquariums with soft slightly acid water. Stones and rocks make excellent decorations. But again caution is needed; you should never use rocks that affect your water’s pH levels or stones that might contain toxins. There are also fake rocks that resemble real rocks, but these are pretty expensive. Rocks can be used to create caves which many fishes are passionate about. Coral are a beautiful addition to marine aquariums; in fact they may prove necessary for a healthy marine habitat. But can be dangerous to fresh water aquarium and should not be used as they be harmful.
Gravel or sand: Both are great both come in a variety of color. Gravel comes in white, brown and black, or blue, red, green, yellow the whole rainbow spectrum. Sand again also has a plethora of colors white, black, blue, yellow, red, green. Both of these can be layered in multiple colors.
Glass marbles, Ceramics, Plastic: Ok all are unnatural materials and might look slightly tacky, but fishes don’t give a fig for this, they enjoy them enormously. Glass marbles though are not a good bottom substrate out of a biologically as flora does not thrive on them, can add beautiful colors to the aquarium. It’s best to use them sparingly or add another more functional substrate below. Ceramics are excellent aquarium decorations. All sizes and shapes can be used as long as they do not have sharp edges. However ceramics tend to grow algae that might be hard to. Plastic they are cheap, colorful and yes tacky, but can be found in a variety of fun shapes. Treasure chests, skulls, divers, pirates, plants and ships you name it and stores have them.
It is imperative that you only use aquarium decorations that are safe to use in aquariums. If you have salt water aquariums they should be saltwater-safe also. If you don’t take this precaution your fish will die due to the organisms and toxins released by the decorations
Decorations have both practical and aesthetical use if done tastefully and carefully you can create a miniature aquatic ecosystem that both you and your fish can enjoy.
Success tips for your pet business
In order to be more successful with your pet business, get your mind and body geared up for success. Start by making positive attitude adjustments for success and better health, inside and out with these helpful tips...
* Concentrate on business first, and then dig in and learn more about how to run a business. Using help from library or other resources, develop basic business and marketing plans. And from now on, stop wondering how to run your business operations and KNOW. When you follow no plan or even a poor one, you do reach your goal: nothing. So plan for success and strive to get there instead!
* Learn more about the pet industry, what people buy online and off. Do a little research each month to see what the more popular selling pet products and services are and what campaigns are out in the mainstream. Bookmark pet sites and sign up for their ezines to see what’s new, what the news and announcement are and what you might be able to learn to help your own business grow. Keep up with the industry!
* Slacking off and being lazy don’t work in the business world long term. So stop trying to short change your visitors, leads, prospects, clients. Use some elbow grease and do what you need to do to each day to attract traffic, generate leads, follow up and close make your sales. Make a point to regularly plan sales and marketing campaigns – online and off – for getting human and search engine traffic, leads, prospects and sales. Have your website, content, autoresponders and everything else updated regularly and in place. Avoiding laziness helps make anyone more successful!
* Don’t hide out from the real world and stay at your computer all day. Get out and network at industry event, and network, reaching out – online and off – to connect with others. Learn from other pet business reps who have been where you are and already reached some level of success. Network with others who work at home for tips about what works best and what doesn’t when juggling work with family. Save your contacts’ information in a database like one in any email program (Microsoft Outlook) and add to your goals to follow up on a regular basis with people. Set goals: talk to at least four people every day via phone, email or some other means.
* Get and stay in shape. Success starts on the inside!
So get yourself and your business in sync with success. Successful work habits are directly proportional to successful results!
* Concentrate on business first, and then dig in and learn more about how to run a business. Using help from library or other resources, develop basic business and marketing plans. And from now on, stop wondering how to run your business operations and KNOW. When you follow no plan or even a poor one, you do reach your goal: nothing. So plan for success and strive to get there instead!
* Learn more about the pet industry, what people buy online and off. Do a little research each month to see what the more popular selling pet products and services are and what campaigns are out in the mainstream. Bookmark pet sites and sign up for their ezines to see what’s new, what the news and announcement are and what you might be able to learn to help your own business grow. Keep up with the industry!
* Slacking off and being lazy don’t work in the business world long term. So stop trying to short change your visitors, leads, prospects, clients. Use some elbow grease and do what you need to do to each day to attract traffic, generate leads, follow up and close make your sales. Make a point to regularly plan sales and marketing campaigns – online and off – for getting human and search engine traffic, leads, prospects and sales. Have your website, content, autoresponders and everything else updated regularly and in place. Avoiding laziness helps make anyone more successful!
* Don’t hide out from the real world and stay at your computer all day. Get out and network at industry event, and network, reaching out – online and off – to connect with others. Learn from other pet business reps who have been where you are and already reached some level of success. Network with others who work at home for tips about what works best and what doesn’t when juggling work with family. Save your contacts’ information in a database like one in any email program (Microsoft Outlook) and add to your goals to follow up on a regular basis with people. Set goals: talk to at least four people every day via phone, email or some other means.
* Get and stay in shape. Success starts on the inside!
So get yourself and your business in sync with success. Successful work habits are directly proportional to successful results!
Is it bad to feed wild birds?
Is there evidence that feeding birds in your backyard will lead to bird death? Some think that once birds rely on your feed, they will not be capable of gaining their own food, especially during hard times such as winter.
Some feel that birds will rely on the food provided by you and that they will lose their ability to find their own food. Other experts think that our feathered friends are much more resilient and will discover new sources of food if the feeder repeatedly is empty and they can't support themselves or their young.
As reported in Bird Watcher's Digest, researchers Margaret Brittingham and Stanley Temple found that black-capped chickadees take, on average, only 20-25% of their winter food requirements from feeders. But, they also demonstrated a significant correlation between an individual bird's ability to survive the winter and the use of bird feeders.
Evidence shows that aves that eat food provided by humans through feeders had an annual (not just winter) survival rate that is 8% higher (up to 95% from 87%) than those birds that don't eat food provided by humans. For winter (as opposed to month-to-month), 69% of the feeder using birds survived the winter where only 37% of wild non-feeder using birds survived the winter.
If more wild birds survive the winter when we feed them, what are the implications? In simple terms, it means that without our help, a higher number of birds fail to survive the winter. If we help, more birds will survive. Curiously, even though our food supply will decrease the winter death rate, our avian friends will not completely rely on us. If your bird feeders are consistently empty, these amazing animals will almost always take flight to find another source of food on their own. You will also notice that in the spring, when food abounds, the birds are not as active at the feeders as they are in the winter when food is harder to find.
We can only suspect that different birds, like people, have different levels of dependence. However, the truth is that our avian friends will adapt. If one fails to continue a consistent feeding program, the birds will adapt and search for food.
I recommend that if you start a bird feeding program, stay consistent. It is best if you fill the feeders at the same time every day or whatever interval you need and ensure that the feeders do not stay empty for extended periods. For really great public information about bird feeding, go to http://www.americanbirding.org/
Also, if you plan to go on vacation or holiday, plan for your absence. If you will be gone for a short time (a few days), overfill your feeder and spread some on the ground around trees or bushes near your feeders. If you are going to be gone for an extended time, ask your friends, neighbors, or relatives to check and fill your feeders on a consistent basis.
As for winter feeding, it is more serious. Some bird populations may not migrate to areas of higher food availability if there is a reliable source near their summer habitats. Thus, if you feed birds on a consistent basis over the spring and summer, it is important that you are extremely consistent in the winter, when some species may rely on your food to survive.
To make a long story short, it is better for survival rates if you feed wild birds in your yard. But if you decide to feed them, it is ideal if you are consistent in your feeding.
Some feel that birds will rely on the food provided by you and that they will lose their ability to find their own food. Other experts think that our feathered friends are much more resilient and will discover new sources of food if the feeder repeatedly is empty and they can't support themselves or their young.
As reported in Bird Watcher's Digest, researchers Margaret Brittingham and Stanley Temple found that black-capped chickadees take, on average, only 20-25% of their winter food requirements from feeders. But, they also demonstrated a significant correlation between an individual bird's ability to survive the winter and the use of bird feeders.
Evidence shows that aves that eat food provided by humans through feeders had an annual (not just winter) survival rate that is 8% higher (up to 95% from 87%) than those birds that don't eat food provided by humans. For winter (as opposed to month-to-month), 69% of the feeder using birds survived the winter where only 37% of wild non-feeder using birds survived the winter.
If more wild birds survive the winter when we feed them, what are the implications? In simple terms, it means that without our help, a higher number of birds fail to survive the winter. If we help, more birds will survive. Curiously, even though our food supply will decrease the winter death rate, our avian friends will not completely rely on us. If your bird feeders are consistently empty, these amazing animals will almost always take flight to find another source of food on their own. You will also notice that in the spring, when food abounds, the birds are not as active at the feeders as they are in the winter when food is harder to find.
We can only suspect that different birds, like people, have different levels of dependence. However, the truth is that our avian friends will adapt. If one fails to continue a consistent feeding program, the birds will adapt and search for food.
I recommend that if you start a bird feeding program, stay consistent. It is best if you fill the feeders at the same time every day or whatever interval you need and ensure that the feeders do not stay empty for extended periods. For really great public information about bird feeding, go to http://www.americanbirding.org/
Also, if you plan to go on vacation or holiday, plan for your absence. If you will be gone for a short time (a few days), overfill your feeder and spread some on the ground around trees or bushes near your feeders. If you are going to be gone for an extended time, ask your friends, neighbors, or relatives to check and fill your feeders on a consistent basis.
As for winter feeding, it is more serious. Some bird populations may not migrate to areas of higher food availability if there is a reliable source near their summer habitats. Thus, if you feed birds on a consistent basis over the spring and summer, it is important that you are extremely consistent in the winter, when some species may rely on your food to survive.
To make a long story short, it is better for survival rates if you feed wild birds in your yard. But if you decide to feed them, it is ideal if you are consistent in your feeding.
Monday, July 23, 2007
choosing a saltwater fishtank
What to Look For in a Saltwater Fish Tank
The decision to purchase a saltwater or marine fish tank for your home or office should not be taken lightly. Marine fish will have requirements far greater than freshwater fish. However, once you’ve decided to purchase a saltwater aquarium you’ll be rewarded with a stunning range of tropical and reef fish to choose from.
But first you’ll need to purchase your tank. The selection process can be time consuming and confusing because the range of tanks available is large. The best advice is usually to purchase the largest tank you can afford and that will fit in the available space. There are numerous stories of people starting out their fish tank hobby with a small fish tank only to find in a short space of time that they wish they had purchased a larger tank!
A 30-gallon saltwater aquarium is probably the smallest tank you should consider. A fish tank of this size will provide sufficient surface area to allow adequate exchange of oxygen into the water and to provide a comfortable swimming environment for your fish.
The oxygen supply in the water together with the water temperature will determine the success or otherwise of your fish keeping hobby. Tropical saltwater fish require a water temperature of about 75 degrees F. The warmer water in the saltwater aquarium will tend to deplete the oxygen in the water which means that the surface area becomes important. The addition of aeration equipment is usually desirable to increase the oxygen concentration. Aeration can usually be provided in conjunction with your filtration equipment.
Saltwater fish tanks are available in both acrylic and glass. There are advantages and disadvantages to both. Some of the advantages of glass aquariums are
* Glass fish tanks are usually cheaper than acrylic tanks
* Glass fish tanks are more scratch resistant than acrylic tanks
* Glass fish tanks won't discolor with age
* Glass fish tanks won’t require as much brace support as acrylic tanks although the stand needs to be able to support a great weight
Advantages of acrylic fish tanks
* Acrylic fish tanks are lighter in weight than glass fish tanks
* Acrylic fish tanks can be custom made in a shape to suit your home
* Acrylic fish tanks are less likely to break
* Acrylic fish tanks can be purchased online
Setting Up Your Saltwater Fish Tank
Bringing your new saltwater fish tank home from the store is only the first step. Never be tempted to purchase fish at the same time that you acquire your aquarium. There are many steps to complete prior to introducing fish to their new home.
First, you need to install your tank in its desired location. Avoid locating your saltwater fish tank in any spot that receives sunlight. Sunlight will cause algae to grow in your tank and whilst this will not usually harm the fish it is unsightly and spoils the appearance of your aquarium. Also avoid any locations close to room heaters or where the tank will be exposed to drafts.
Many acrylic fish tanks come with a built-in stand. Glass tanks will require a sturdy stand and should have a layer of polystyrene or rubber placed between the tank and the stand to absorb any unevenness. If the tank is unbalanced it will eventually crack.
Check your new tank for leaks. Fill it with water and let is stand for a day or two. Once you have confirmed that it is water tight you will need to thoroughly clean the tank and all equipment. Rinse thoroughly. Do not skip the cleaning and rinsing step just because you’ve purchased a new tank and it appears sparkling clean. Your fish will die if there are any contaminants left in the tank! Don’t forget to wash the gravel before adding it the tank. Add all your other equipment in accordance with the manufacturer’s directions. Your pet store will have provided advice on how to set up your saltwater fish tank.
After you have added your salt water and confirmed that the salt and chemical levels are correct you’ll need to run all your equipment for at least 72 hours to filter and heat your water and stabilize your tank. Let the aquarium cycle to build up the correct biological levels.
The hardest part of setting up your saltwater fish tank is now complete and now you’ll be able to go and select your colorful fish!
The decision to purchase a saltwater or marine fish tank for your home or office should not be taken lightly. Marine fish will have requirements far greater than freshwater fish. However, once you’ve decided to purchase a saltwater aquarium you’ll be rewarded with a stunning range of tropical and reef fish to choose from.
But first you’ll need to purchase your tank. The selection process can be time consuming and confusing because the range of tanks available is large. The best advice is usually to purchase the largest tank you can afford and that will fit in the available space. There are numerous stories of people starting out their fish tank hobby with a small fish tank only to find in a short space of time that they wish they had purchased a larger tank!
A 30-gallon saltwater aquarium is probably the smallest tank you should consider. A fish tank of this size will provide sufficient surface area to allow adequate exchange of oxygen into the water and to provide a comfortable swimming environment for your fish.
The oxygen supply in the water together with the water temperature will determine the success or otherwise of your fish keeping hobby. Tropical saltwater fish require a water temperature of about 75 degrees F. The warmer water in the saltwater aquarium will tend to deplete the oxygen in the water which means that the surface area becomes important. The addition of aeration equipment is usually desirable to increase the oxygen concentration. Aeration can usually be provided in conjunction with your filtration equipment.
Saltwater fish tanks are available in both acrylic and glass. There are advantages and disadvantages to both. Some of the advantages of glass aquariums are
* Glass fish tanks are usually cheaper than acrylic tanks
* Glass fish tanks are more scratch resistant than acrylic tanks
* Glass fish tanks won't discolor with age
* Glass fish tanks won’t require as much brace support as acrylic tanks although the stand needs to be able to support a great weight
Advantages of acrylic fish tanks
* Acrylic fish tanks are lighter in weight than glass fish tanks
* Acrylic fish tanks can be custom made in a shape to suit your home
* Acrylic fish tanks are less likely to break
* Acrylic fish tanks can be purchased online
Setting Up Your Saltwater Fish Tank
Bringing your new saltwater fish tank home from the store is only the first step. Never be tempted to purchase fish at the same time that you acquire your aquarium. There are many steps to complete prior to introducing fish to their new home.
First, you need to install your tank in its desired location. Avoid locating your saltwater fish tank in any spot that receives sunlight. Sunlight will cause algae to grow in your tank and whilst this will not usually harm the fish it is unsightly and spoils the appearance of your aquarium. Also avoid any locations close to room heaters or where the tank will be exposed to drafts.
Many acrylic fish tanks come with a built-in stand. Glass tanks will require a sturdy stand and should have a layer of polystyrene or rubber placed between the tank and the stand to absorb any unevenness. If the tank is unbalanced it will eventually crack.
Check your new tank for leaks. Fill it with water and let is stand for a day or two. Once you have confirmed that it is water tight you will need to thoroughly clean the tank and all equipment. Rinse thoroughly. Do not skip the cleaning and rinsing step just because you’ve purchased a new tank and it appears sparkling clean. Your fish will die if there are any contaminants left in the tank! Don’t forget to wash the gravel before adding it the tank. Add all your other equipment in accordance with the manufacturer’s directions. Your pet store will have provided advice on how to set up your saltwater fish tank.
After you have added your salt water and confirmed that the salt and chemical levels are correct you’ll need to run all your equipment for at least 72 hours to filter and heat your water and stabilize your tank. Let the aquarium cycle to build up the correct biological levels.
The hardest part of setting up your saltwater fish tank is now complete and now you’ll be able to go and select your colorful fish!
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